I have done the searches and read the posts. Now I would like to get some current opinions before I spend the $$$. Am I better off with a wet NOS system, or should I get the Boondockers. I believe I can get about the same gain from either one, done right.
the wet system is much cheaper but harder to tune, keep tuned, etc. The Boondocker is expensive but eay to tune and not as subject to bottle pressure issues. Wet you can run as big a nozzle as you have the wallet and courage to do. The Boondockers comes as a 5 to 25 shot system or a 20 to 50 shot. I know a lot of guys on this forum are running juiced, maybe I can get some opinions here....

 

Cardiac I will give you my 2 cents on the subject of N2O.
Wet or dry? Well, I personally like a full on wet system. Why? I just perfer it. I guess I'm old school that's all. Don't get me wrong, from what I have read the Boondockers system is a good one and will work just fine. Just a different way to skin a cat thats all.
I don't agree about a wet system being harder to tune or keep tuned. Pop two jets in and your done. Too slow? Pop two BIGGER jets in and your done. A chart will tell you how much power you will get and it will also tell you what ratio to run to keep the EGT within reason.
If I was serious about drag racing here is what I would do. I would put together a wet system from used parts that you can get cheap off of the net. The only thing you might have to buy is a bottle unless you want to run a 10 pounder on there!!!!
I would then take the $$$$$$ I saved and buy a controller so you can tune for the traction you are running in at the time. Controllers are expensive, but worth the price if you are serious. I personally think there are a lot of people that are missing the boat by not running a controller.
If you are just out to have some fun with a built Rappy then just about anything you can scab on will work. This stuff is not magic so the cheaper the better.
$ for $ N2O will beat ANY mod on the market bar none. Have fun with what ever system you choose.

 

what is the downside to using the boondockers system? if its cheaper and is as efficiant than a wet system, why would anyone want to use any thing else?
what is a good estimate on how much a controller would run u?

 

thebigshow the problem with the Boondockers system is the price of the kit. I can buy a full on V8 fogger system for what they want for an ATV nitrous system. Thats crazy!!!!!! There is a ATV type bottle on E-bay right now for 75 bones. Add some solenoides for about 40 a piece and a filter and some line and some other small things and your in business. All for under $300 and you can go over a 100HP shot if you want. What does Boondockers want? 800 bucks or so?
A new 0 to 100% flow controller will run you about $500 new. BTW, I am talking a flow controller here and not a timer controller. You can set any ramp curve you want with a NOS p/n NOS-15834NOS. This is a nice setup. This one also has a retard box or a second stage of nitrous switch built into it. This a a serious system for serious racers. Like I said, if you want to do small time stuff, anything will just about work.
This is for the person that wants the last 10th out of there racing quad, car, lawn mower or whatever they have. $300 for a home brew set-up with a $500 controller and your in the same price range as the Boondockers system; even under if you can score a used box on E-bay.

 

There shouldnt be any problem running NOS with 12.1 compression is there??

 

With all of that O2 in the cylinder, nitrous speeds up the burn, A LOT. That being so, you need to run a higher octane fuel. So the more nitrous you pack in the cylinder the higher octane you need to run. That's why serious racers run a ign. box that will retard the spark. Same thing with compression. The higher static compression you run the less of a shot you can run. In other words the higher static compression you are running the less of a shot you can shoot safely. The same holds true for superchargers.
In theory you will make more power with a higher shot of nitrous and less static compression because nitrous has about 12 or 13% more O2 in it than air. More O2 and fuel = bigger bang.
Another rule of N2O that should be followed is the more compression and nitrous you are shooting the higher RPM it should come on at. You do not want to run a ton of nitrous through the motor at low RPM. Nitrous makes a ton of torque and you will bend rods, collapse ring lands and do all sorts of other nasty stuff. Hence two and three stage systems.
I've seen a few people come on this board and tell other people that nitrous blew up their motor. I have one thing to say about that- nitrous did not blow up their motor; they did. Nitrous oxide is stupid, it doesen't know how much should be injected in a motor. The owner/tuner should. When they don't, or get greedy, bad things happen and nitrous gets blamed.
Nitrous has rules, and if you don't follow them you will hurt your motor. If you follow them, it will put a smile on your face and put a frown on the person your racing against!!!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
HAPPY EASTER EVERYONE!!!!

 

could i spray my ds650 which just has bolt ons if so how large a shot

 

wet

 

My vote is for wet. And wet is not harder to tune. I have not run nitrous on a 4 wheeler but have installed and run a good many kits on cars and trucks all the way from 35 horse kits all the way to 2 stage fogger kits up to 1000 extra horses. Main thing to remember is that you are trying to avoid detonation:
On cars the rule of thumb is to retard timing 2 degrees for every 50 extra horses.
Just to be safe you might want to run one step colder plug.
And last but not least you might want to run a little race gas just for safety(Again it is just a precaution to prevent detonation).

Just my two cents,

 

Doctorturbo is right on about everything. From what Ive learned on the hill is that spraying under load causes my temp to go up also, This could be due to not enough flow in and out of the motor fast enough. I have GREAT results with spraying from 7k to 10krpm... Due to my higher compression, I can BARELY get away with a safe 25-28 shot and thats pushing it.

I think a wet system is safe and the way to go, but Ive heard great things about boondocker, for a wet system -If you take all precautions and purge the gas with nos bottle off to make sure the fuel pump and selinoid is working before each run, its very simple. I ran an extra point apart this weekend cause I only sprayed at higher rpms and didnt get any overheating probs. IMO the richer you go with fuel jets it wont run as good under load but is safer at a higher rpm. JMO- Im not an expert, this is just what has worked for my set-up.