Having some difficulty getting my 48hv running right. It was really awsome right out of the box but there was a bit of a hard spot at the beginning of the throttle pull. I talked to Randall this morning and he said to richen the needle a half a turn and reset the idle and see how that is. So I did it as directed I turn the needle one half turn clock wise. then pushed up on the needle and turned it back to where the flat side is facing the intake. Started her up and it was smoking a bit at idle and a big puff when you crack the throttle. So I took it apart again and turned the needle counter clockwise 1/4 turn Then pushed it up and turned it clock wise to lock it in place and once again to place the flat side toward the intake. Same problem so I turned the fuel / air screw out to lean it out and still no luck (smoking again. So once again turned it back another 1/4 turn back to the original setting no change. After I had towalk down the driveway and across the street to pick up my screwdriver I decided I better quit. What am I doing wrong here. Randall had it set really good the way it came except for the hard spot. I think Im a bit in over my head here. Thanks

 

First off, make sure you are doing these adjustments whe the engine is operating temp. A cool engine will give you all sorts of issues while trying to tune.

If all other aspects with the out of the box tunning, I would adjust he air fuel screw. Check out my site for more info on what worked for me.

 

On my 48 hv the screw on the side is the air bleed or lean and richen screw and the screw on the top is your idle screw.Mine was set at 1/8 of turn on the idle and 2.5 turns on the air bleed screw. Mine is set to idle at 1800 to 2000 rpms. You are gonna get that blast of smoke every time you start it up,like sandholic said dont adjust the carb till the bike is warmed up.

 

I have found that the Lectron's will put out more smoke than the stock carb. I use to be able to fire up my DS in the garage with the stock carb and let it run. With the Lectron I can only run it for a couple of minutes in the garage before having to step outside for some fresh air.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

As the others have stated make sure the bike is warmed up. Make small adjustments only, and take it for a hard ride after each adjustment before making any more changes.

In order to minimize the "hard spot at the beginning of the throttle pull" or as we call it "stuck shut", you have to run it a little richer and therefore it is going to put out more smoke. It is a tradeoff with this carb.

 

I think im not adjusting the needle right. So let me see if I have this right. Turning the needle clockwise richens the mixture. When turning the needle you have push slightly up to get it to turn. Ok, to lock it in place you push up all the way on the needle and turn it clockwise again and return it to the flat side facing the intake. To lean it out is the opposite but you still push it up and turn it clockwise to lock it in? Or is it Counter clockwise to lock it in. Do I push the needle up as far as it will go and turn to adust it and push it up slightly and turn it to lock it in? Am i making any sense. this is really hard to explain. I cant seem to find the instruction sheet it came with.

 

Oh yea, I have been letting it warm up a good 5 min before messing with it. I understand that it will smoke a little but it is starting to look like a 2 smoker

 

Clockwise - richens
Counter-clockwise - leans

WHen adjusting you do NOT push up at all on the metering rod. You just turn it in either 1/4 or 1/2 turn increments. I use a small set of needle nose pliers to adjust. Once you turn the metering rod the flat end will no longer be facing the intake. At this point and only at this point do you push UP on the rod and rotate it back to where the flat side faces the intake. When you push up on the metering rod it does not matter which way you rotate it, or how many times you rotate it. While in the UP position you are not making any changes to the rod length

 

Exactly what DSengineer said! I too used a needle nose pliers for rotating the needle, just be gentle, they are delicate and the last thing you need is a bent needle. They aren't cheap either, I heard around $60 each.

Once you rotate the needle with the pliers and then push it up and rotate to reposition the flat side. You will find the needle will have some play to. I would use my pliers again to try and make sure that the flat side off the need is facing the motor with equal play in each direction.

 

Now that makes alot more sense, I get it now. I'll give it a try and let you know how it goes. Whats a good starting point for the air/fuel screw. I have moved it from where Randall set it. I wish I would have just left this alone, but I really didnt like that hard spot in the throttle. I hate learnin stuff the hard way. Thanks guys

 

I don't know where they set the air fuel screw for you. What I would do is write down every adjustment you make that way you can revert back to how it was if you get too far away from optimal. I would just get it ride able and then let Eric or Randal take it for a spin when you meet up with them, they can tune those things in minutes.