I actually thought of that after reading your post. It would be nice to not have break all those bolts loose again and again. Although with any luck I wont have to do it again for a long time after my head comes back. Do you have to take quite a bit off the lug? or mostly off the cross memeber? Just wondering about the strength issue.

 

[quote]
Originally posted by: R00ST
Well I am nearly poor (relatively speaking) so shim-unders would add too much cost, I just need somthing I can drop in. So my options are hpr 1/2/4? Or do the 4's require shim unders as well?

HR1- drop in with factory springs. They act like stock cams but with extra pop all around.
HR2- springs required. Still uses factory shim over setup. Compare to 109's but with better bottom end acceleration.
HR3- Shim under kit required. Stronger than HR2's from bottom to top with quicker acceleration and better cylinder filling. Engine accelerates very quick with this cam setup.
HR4- Shim under kit required. Stronger than HR3's from mid to top with very slight loss of bottom.
HR5- Shim under kit required. Cam bridge modifications required. Drag race profile. How high do you want to twist it!!

Thats a very general out line of HR cams. Each cam has a base line profile and can have duration added or taken away and lobe centers changed according to riding conditions, weight, carb type, exhaust, carb size, compression, rpm range, gearing, NOS, turbo, port configuration, etc, etc, etc.

 

Yea and now that I got the 12:1 and HR3's in all I will need to do is install the TM45. Once I do that, which should be this time next week, I'll have to tether myself to the bike and hold on for dear life!...... [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

a few tidbits and opinions,
I have 11.5:1 piston and RWR a1/a2 cams, run pump 92 octane for many years on this motor with never an issue at any altitude down to sea level. the power is great, although the a1/a2 cams are kinda sluggy below 3,000rpm - once you get to about 2,900 or 3,000rpm you can distinctively feel them take off - so you don't wanna chug on do or die hill climbs, you gotta keep the rpm over 3K until you crest and in the corners, nothing a little clutching can't keep track of, never an issue.

never pressure wash a chain, the pressured water gets around the o-rings very easily, and then cannot get back out, and there is no way for the lube you use to get around teh o-rings and fight the water that is now between the link plates. oils sling and make a mess on the back of your motor and the bottom of your fender, and attract dry dirt, dust and sand. waxes build up over time to the point of nearly needing scraped off. bel-ray Super Clean (not regular bel ray) from any bike shop is what I use, easily cleans off, dries to the touch with a ghost grey appearance and does not atract dirt/sand, and does not build up over time like waxes.

crankcase vent - get some new tubing, run it up the frame in front of the motor, put a inline filter on it (like an anodized aluminum two piece made for fuel), then run more tubing back down the same frame and in front of the engine skid and let it hang an inch below the bottom of the bike. Tiny drops of oil litter the very ground it came from prior to being refined, and there is no mess anywhere on the bike. You can tuck it away outa site, never notice it, and all issues are gone.
For decades past motors never even had a filter at all on the vent tube, they all used to just loop over the top of the motor and back down to the ground. the only reason they started routing them to the airboxes was for emmisions standards I guess. But I refuse to put up with the mess.