Was considering a boondockers kit for my quad and was wondering what others have of thought of it. Seems like a cheap investment with nice results..........

 

boondockers isnt a bad system at all..but if you really want to know some results on nitrous pm some of the big guys like thebomb that has ran it before..if you need install directions or w/e you can read my post about it they really helped me out....

 

Quote:
boondockers isnt a bad system at all..but if you really want to know some results on nitrous pm some of the big guys like thebomb that has ran it before..if you need install directions or w/e you can read my post about it they really helped me out....


HAHAHAHAHAHAHA, Bring all the BIG BOYS!

esrboy wait till after Ds Days, then let people tell you what they think. THere is going to be alot of nitrous bikes there. Oh ya were bringing about 62.5lbs just for three bikes!

 

I've run two weekends with my Boondocker Nitrous on my EX. Yesterday I tried out the 20 shot and loved it. I built my EX so that I dont have to run Nitrous all the time - 12:1 piston, with a stroked 460. I use the Nitrous sparingly; usually just for dune hill drags. The really nice thing about that system is when your bottle starts to run out, you dont run rich. And, if your bottle pressure is high, you wont run lean.

I raced a moderately built Banshee yesterday up comp hill in Florence and I did well. Just so you know, I weigh 260lbs, and he was about 175lbs. The front end kept coming up (even with an extended swingarm). My tire pressure wasnt equal in the rear tires and I ended up drifting right, pretty close to the Banshee, so I had to let off and get the quad straight again. With all of that, I ended up finishing just about a length behind him. I got a lot of respect and props from the Banshee guy - Quite a few people came over after the race and wanted to know everything about the Boondocker kit.

My only complaint is that I never have enough Nitrous! With the 20oz bottle, I get about 5 good runs out of it, then the it starts surging - a sign that I am running out.

There are some tricks to that kit you should know. First of all find a place to mount your bottle first. Then decide if you want a siphon or not. With the Siphon, the bottle bottom should be tilted down. You can also request a flexible siphon (which is what I have). This works for me as I mount the bottle horizontal up front near the bumper. The siphon follows gravity, which is usually where the liquid nitrous is. If you mount the bottle upside down, with the valve on the bottom, you dont want a siphon. Next, find a place to mount your solinoid. This will tell you how long your main nitrous steel braided line will need to be from the bottle to the solinoid. You can either cut the line to length that comes with the kit and use the supplied compression fitting, or send the line and compression fitting back to Boondocker and have them make a line that exactly fits the length you need with factory fittings. If you cut your own, it does take a bit to get everything tight. I suggest using a Dremel with a thin cutting blade to get through that steel braid if you cut your own line to fit. Next, figure out where you want the nitrous manifold to inject the liquid nitrous. I had mine installed right on the end of my K&N filter. Just use an exacto knife and follow the pattern for the cut in the kit. If you run a standard pre-filter, you'll need to cut a few holes in the prefilter end so that the hoses can have access. I was lucky enough to find a prefilter with two elastic open ends so I didnt have to cut the prefilter. Use this type of install if you run with a direct mount filter, or an open air box. If you have a closed airbox, you can mount the manifold right on the box. If you run the supplied push button switch on your handlebar, the kit comes with two ways to strap the switch to your handlebar. One is a crimp strap, the other uses a screw and nut strap. I like the screw and nut so that I can remove it if I have to later. The next thing is to run a hose from one of your two carb vent lines to the manifold. This pressurizes the top of your bowl to add the equal amount of fuel when running with Nitrous. I suggest putting a splice in that line and used one of the supplied hose connections. This way you can easily tap into that hose and adjust your carb bowl pressue with the supplied manometer. Use the jetted hose vent caps to plug up the remaining carb vent hoses. Then, wire up the supplied rectifier. The wiring diagram is pretty good supplied with the kit. Two wires go to the manifold, one is a switched positive off the handlebar switch, the other is a ground. Once everything is hooked up, test for leaks. Do this by turning the power on, with the quad not running. If you have no leaks, hook up the manometer measure your pressure to the carb. In most cases Boondocker recommends 2.5 psi. Do this by starting up the quad, and at idle, press the handle bar switch momentarily and read the manometer. Adjust the Nitrous manifold screw to Lean or Rich to get to the desired 2.5 psi. Rich moves the pressure up, lean moves the pressure down. Once its adjusted, it shouldnt change - but I will occasionally test mine to ensure its right.

I fill my bottle at the local Carquest auto parts store. They have a filling station in the machine shop. It costs about $5 per pound. A 20oz bottle holds just over a pound of Nitrous.

 

getting excited just thinking about it!! Was thinking about mounting a bottle inside a cooler on a six pac rack for stealth purposes but behind the airbox doesn't sound bad either.