I bought a lectron 46 (used, thanks to dsengineer). I decided I wanted a carb as I already have the basic mods (HMF/ MR HP intake/K&N) and wanted more zip before dropping bigger bucks on a piston and cams.

I have the 46hv with the moose billet throttle and the standard cable.

I currently have it installed with the tank shroud off, and no routing on the cable (it just does a large bend from throttle to carb) as I wanted easy access to the carb till I get it tuned right. My first question is about the suck-shut. The cable is VERY smooth right now when machine is off (has no bends at all in cable so thats obvious) but once I fire the machine up, it gets super sticky at the bottom, and actually is stiff until about 3.5k rpms (so even if I hold it at 2500 and try to punch it, I have to break the resistance). How can I solve this? Will jetting fix this? The slide is perfectly smooth and clean, and the cable appears to be as smooth as it gets, so I dont think either of those are my problem.

My next questions relate to the tuning. Does anyone have a diagram/picture of the carb explaining what everything is? It took me quite a while to learn the mikuni in and out, and since this carb is obviously different and not many things are in the same place.

Do these carbs not have chokes? I dont see one mounted on the carb, or where you would run a cable to one.

What are the two knurled ***** on the upper passenger side of the carb for?


As a note this carb was setup for dsengineer for open endcap/ported intake and a filter, running at 900 ft elevation. This is almost identical to my setup, which is HMF/ported intake and filter, running at 800-900 ft. (when I looked at the slide, I beleive the metering rod was the MR HP 5-1?)

When I fired the machine it fired up instantly, but has a serious case of hanging revs. Without any throttle and firing it goes to around 2k rpms and slowly drops once warm and is then too low, and I have to keep the throttle open a touch to keep it from dying (idles at like 900 right now)

I tried running it at first with the lid on and snorkles in (just to test) and it ran ok. For my final setup I plan to run without lid / lid seal / lid clamps / airbox drain plug cover and then pull the snorkles off in favor of some 90* PVC elbows. I tried pulling the lid and the seal off, and left snorkles on and ran it again. It seems to rev about like the stocker (not quite the two stroke feel most are talking about!) and the power seems about the same, but cant judge super low power because of the stuck shut business. The midrange feels slightly stronger, but other than that it is running very similar to the stocker. I raced my yfz buddy (we drag race a LOT) and with my mods and the stock carb we are always neck and neck from dead stop to about 5k rpm in 5th (run out of room). I raced him 4 times with the 46 on and was still DEAD Even with him.

To adjust the metering rod (which is like the needle on the stocker, does midrange?) dont you lift up and turn? (I didnt touch it as I didnt want to mess it up). then the power jets are essentially the mains, correct? metering mostly just WOT? and is it true the power jets are just mikuni pilots, like from our stock carbs? and what about the idle/ and up to 1/4 throttle, what circuit is that?

Is there anythying else on the exterior/interior that I need to know about for adjusting?

I am just confused, because besides running slightly off at lower rpms, it isnt popping in the intake/exhaust or stumbling, so it seems the jetting would be CLOSE, which is actually bad the way I look at it because right now it is very similar to stock power.

I am hoping someone has a bit of time and can explain these lectrons to me so I can start having the smooth/crips throttle response and feel the power gain. Thanks VERY MUCH in advance for any and all help!

 

Just give eric a call at HPR he will explain it all to you. I called him today and asked him the same question. He said the air screw only effects the idle. Make sure your intake is bored out bigger than the carb. If your needle is set that only have to mess with the main jet. He can tell you everything you need. I won't learn mine till next week.

 

He also told me to check his web site and look at the cable routing for that carb. It should be just like stock.

 

I was hoping not to have to call him, as I know he is a busy guy. I do have my intake ported by eric (the full race port, so it should match the 46).

Which screw is the air screw? (there are two on the side, I wasnt sure which did what) is it just used to adjust the idle level?

 

You really need to call him regardless. But before you do look at the metering rod and get the numbers off if it (should say something like MRHP 2-5 or MRHP 1-4, something like that) just to make sure you have the right rod for YOUR bikes setup.

 

well it should be the right metering rod (I beleive it said MRHP 5-1). and it should be the same for my setup as dsengineers because he was endcap/filter/intake and @ 900 ft elevation, and I am HMF/filter/intake @ 900 ft.

I am just going to try and get as much info as I can before I call him so I dont have to bother him for every piece of information.

 

I managed to find my instruction sheet for the Lectron. PM me with an email address and I'll scan it and send it to you.

 

Roost , you need to ritchen up the low speed adjustment and then re-adjust your idle speed . My 44 runs exelent and I only have an idle speed adjustment , no mixture adj. screw at all . theres probably nothing wrong with it . Go to the clubs picnic on sat 17 th we can play with it there and I'll have a radar gun too ! 15 to get in and its @ KI tracks in oregon il.

 

Roost,
The Lectron's idle best in the 1800-2000 RPM range. It is not going to idle down where the stock carb will ~1300RPM. There is a choke but you rarely have to use it unless its VERY cold out. It is the acorn nut in the vertical position on the right front side when sitting on the bike.

Take off the air box lid and snorkles. Keeping them on just does not allow the Lectron to breath. Actually removing the airbox entirely and bumping up the power jet a size or two will give best results. That is how I am running on my Stage II DS.

Before making any adjustments to the carb make sure you DS is FULLY warmed up. First set the idle in the range I posted above then whack the throttle! If you get a sputter off idle as the RPM's come up then it is too lean and you need to richen the needle. 1/4 turn adjustment clockwise. If it doesn't sputter, try going 1/4 turn increments leaner (counter-clockwise) until you can get it to sputter. Eric tuned the carb for me and the only adjustment I had to make was a 1/2 turn richer on the needle. It was setup a little too lean for my DS but from what I hear they have some pretty humid/thick air out there in Kentucky.

Richening the air screw (clockwise) helps with the stuck-shut to a degree. Anytime you adjust the air screw or metering rod you will have to re-adjust your idle.

Check this site for an exploded view of the carb and instructions on adjusting the metering rod: http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/index.htm