Hightower is the TM45 expert, also a nice guy. Always willing to help.
TM45



The line coming out of the crankcase is a breather.
Factory ran the line under the exhaust pipes, up right side of motor to the
carb and then over to the left inlet air tube. Who wants to put oil into the airbox!!
I have run a longer hose that would follow the same path, but from the carb it
would stay on right side of quad. I would zip tie it in several places along upper frame rail
till got to rear of quad and then had it come down to within a few inches of chain.
If oil does come out it just lubes the chain. Because the end is now facing downward,
I have had no problems going threw water, water cannot go up the hose because there is
slight air coming out it.

 

OMR

Yes, I agree, Hightower is the expert on the TM45, just wondering if your concept would work similar on it, so that I could keep those possible water inlets as high as possible.

Think the breather hose goes back into the air snorkel from airbox for emissions reasons, similar to auto.

Thanks for the input.

KenS

 

KenS
I would not recommend the EHS air lid. It is very high and the distance between the lid top and bottom of seat will be very close. I would do my mods first(lid-on) to get a benchmark.
For motors under 55 hp, I think a resonating airbox will supply plenty of air.
If you find that you need more air, then start to cut the sump pump hose 2 inches shorter and retest.
Volume of air is increased by either size or length. Lets take it a step at a time.
You get the data and I will try to guide you the best I can.

 

OMR,

What jetting changes did you make when you added the additional holes in the slide? I drilled two extra holes and felt the quad did indeed have more power, it would wheelie on take off almost no matter what I did. It isn't a smooth power delivery though, I thought I might need to rejet again. Pulled the plug, tip has a nice tan colour.

 

With lid-on: Based on your running at 32 degree's and lower.
3rd groove
190

With Lid-off:
4-6 groove
200

With the lid-on it does not hit at bottom as hard. More controlled.
With Lid-on the velocity of top is generating more negative pressure and thus draws more fuel through a smaller jet.

If you are not doing alot of big jumps - reset the shock sags.
This will control wheelie's and lower the machine for better ice racing.
Lift your machine so wheels are extended.
Turn out shocks till springs are loose, then tighten 1/8 inch.
Rear shock turn in screw by shock reservor and bottom of shock till in(turn clockwise)
Turn out screws 4 clicks.
You will have to adjust chain also.

 

OMR

here's where I'm at
5 degrees C (41F) temp
200 DJ mainjet
45 pilot
4 turns out mixture screw
DJ needle on 4th from top
4 1/8" holes in slide
Balance tube mod

I ran the quad with just 2 1/8" holes in the slide with the needle in the 3rd position, the quad accelerated nice and smooth, bottom to top. I then drilled the extra 1/8" holes and tried to run it again. It now feels like it hesitates for a second off the line then wallops into the midrange and top end, causing the quad to wheelie. I moved the needle to the 4th position from top before it got dark, didn't seem to improve much. The quad does indeed seem to pull harder on top, but I was hoping for a bit smoother of a power delivery. I will jet to see if I can improve, then try airbox lid on. Timed runs with the extra holes actually increased due to uneven power delivery, did feel good on the trail though.

 

With lid-off:
Turn the mixture screw to 2 3/4 turns out. 4 turns out was for stock needle.
This should get rid of the hesitation. Motor is loading up at bottom.
Then try to raise needle more.
Try 5th then 6st groove. If hesitation does not go away, put in a mikuni 195. DJ is equivelant to a 188 mikuni.
Find best lid-0ff combination.

Now try with lid-on:
Jet down to 190 first and then lower needle if bogs in mid range.

 

Hey thanks for posting the info on the carb modes. I've tried a few but i have a few questions on fine tuning. I've got an 03 ds with stock carb I cut 4 coils off slide spring 165 main jet stock needle on 4th from bottem notch and a k/n carb mount filter and an end cap. i have a big gun cdi box i bought last august before i went to little sahara in OK. with the cdi box it ran like a raped up from the mid to the top but didnt want to idle and acted like it was loading up on the bottom couse i had to sit and clean it out before it would run ok. Then i had to keep the revs up otherwise it felt as if it was loading up again. ive tried messin with the mixture screw to no avail and ended up putting the stock cdi box back on.
Any sugestions on why its doing this or is it a bad box?
any help would be appriciated i dont want to feel like i just wasted money on the box.

 

Seems the guys are liking the mods on the stock carb...lol. Glad the mods are working it's way thru the ranks.

 

To think it all started because a nice guy from Pretoria
picked up the slide from a Raptor and compared it to the slide of a DS.
The ball got rolling and then an Oldman from Wisconsin joined in
and the rest is history.
Freez, you get people thinking outside the box, some people can handle it and some
could not. Whats more important is that this is how change comes about.
Its the holiday season over here and I wish you a happy holiday from the OMR.