Roost,

Same stuff to choose from? What makes you say that?

 

What is the importance of this new tube? I dont see how its worth $170 when its just a piece going from the carb to the air box. Could just go out, get a piece of pvc pipe or aluminum pipe and strap it on lol. I know there were lil things with the rubber tube collapsing and all but thats an expensive fix to the prob if you dont wanna run clamps on the rubber tube.
How important is the air box and air box tube? (power wise) I see a lot of direct mount K&N setups when i hear a lot about the importance of the air tube and air box. I saw Hightower shined in with air movement, would a tube 3" wide make a difference to a tube 2.5" wide from the carb to the air box?

 

The biggere higher dollar stuff is advancing which is great, but just seems there havnt been any new cheaper hp gaining products for a long time. So seeing new items like this are nice, because most everyone can afford the smaller mods, where as not everyone can spring for efi and the hpr 730 kit [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

Roost,

Very well said. It is valid to point out though that there were a few people that were insturmental in developing new technology for the DS in the past year or two. I'd have to say that ODP 1.0 was insturmental in some of that and I hope that ODP 2.0 does equally as much for the community. I don't want to try and make a list of who did what as we all have a rough idea, but developments like this are good - even if some people figure the MSRP is too high - that is fine, they wont buy it while others will.

Right now I'm hoping to get through buying a house so that I can get on to the next major purchase - an RV and a truck to pull it [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-tongue.gif[/img] After all that I'll get back to buying parts for my quads.

 

There is a point in which the velocity of the intake charge cannot meet the demands of the motor. As horsepower goes up, the equation for building a balanced motor has to be reviewed. The volume of air going into a motor and out the exhaust has to be balanced to the size and rpm that the motor is being designed around.
This larger intake will help if the application for its use is required.
Remember that volume increases either by a larger size or shorter length.
Since the length is a constant for the DS application, it thus makes sense that to increase volume, you have to go to a larger diameter intake.
Intakes are designed to maintain inertia in a 4 cycle motor.
In a 2 stroke they use boost bottles to maintain this constant charge.
The intake tube is a reservoir of positive pressure that when the intake valve opens,
there is minimum delay in getting the flow of air going forward.
To say that the stock intake is a velocity stack is not a good statement.
If it was, then you could run with the lid off, even with a cv carb, and have great high rpm pull. Velocity stacks have to be symetrical in shape.
Will this intake pipe work for a basic stock machine?
Like having too big a cam, hurt the bottom and add to top.
You will just have to tune per application. Not a bolt on and run kind of part.
People who say it is too expensive, all they see is a peice of metal.
If it can produce 2 horsepower it is cheap. Less than 100 dollars per 1 horsepower.
Ask the guys who have very builtup motors what it cost them to go from 55 to 75 horsepower.
I was bored and felt like saying something. Sorry I got carried away.

 

Great Post, certainly not too long - thanks for providing the info.

 

Hmm looks like a nice part. Waiting on The Bom's dyno report. If it proves useful I can see myself having one. Is it aluminum or ceramic coated steel?

 

any new news on that snorkel yet? and will it fit on a lectron 46hv.

 

the concept of moving air thru an intake is identical to moving pressurized fluids thru any kind of fluid system. But instead of using 120psi of compressed air to push fluid (liquid or gas), or 4000psi of hydraulic pressure to move fluid, you are using the 14.7psi of ambient air pressure. There is a misconception with vacuum - vacuum does not "pull" anything, but rather vacuum is a removal of pressure, and it is this 14.7psi of ambient air pressure that pushes the flow into the vacuum.

As with any fluid power system, a larger diameter pipe will flow a certain amount at a certain velocity, and when the diameter is reduced but the pressure remains the same (14.7psi) then the velocity has no choice but to increase. This is the basic fundamental theory of the tapered intake boot - velocity increases as the air flows to the smaller diameter end that butts up the carb. This is the simple explanation of course, as simple as it gets, and there are a number of things that enter in to all of the equations beyond this basic description of flow, but this is where it starts, and its one of the first things taught in fluid power technology.

it is nearly impossible to create a total vacuum, but the closer to it you get then naturally the easier it is for the 14.7psi of air pressure to push air into it, and thus higher the flow. this is where valve timing, cam lobe centers, and all that complex stuff comes into play, trying to get the intake and exhaust valves to jive just right together for creating as much vacuum as possible in the chamber for the greatest intake flow. I know there is a lot more to it than this, but I'm no expert, just know some basics because of the industrial field I am in concerning fluid power.


bottom line is that there is a lot of science involved when somebody decides to take on the task of better flow, but the ultimate gauge for success is the dyno. And THEBOM is about to deliver for us, I can't wait.

 

Thanks a lot chris, now my brain hurts! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Very good explanation. I am interested to see what the results are.