There is nothing wrong with any three of these options. What's wrong with a turbo on the dunes? Nothing, but in a short dune drag, which is how many riders prefer to dune, the turbo produces a slower initial power response than a big bore on Nitrous. Exhaust gases are what spin up a turbo, the quicker you can spin it up, the quicker your response will be.

By the way, anybody in here know how much more exhaust gases are generated by a 25hp shot of Nitrous? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Racing my turbo against a bigbore on nos resulted in the same launch times on our last trip to the coast.

 

the torque of a turbo makes it love to climb hills

 

Ok, seriously. Is the Big Bore better for straight duning the the Turbo? I understand that whatever we have on our rides makes it the best, but both are around 5 grand and that is some serious dough.

 

Why did you say my name? I didn't do anything wrong. DANG!

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

The most IMPORTANT money you can spend for riding in the dunes is buying the BEST suspension you can afford.

Then you can spend money on more power!

I have a turbo system and it seems to to be the best for me in the dunes. I had a hard time tinking about opening a brand new motor and having it worked on. There are too many variables that can go wrong, even with a good engine builder.

With the turbo system, it bolts on. If I didn't like it, I could have put it back to stock and sell the turbo system, but I like it! If you have problems with a big bore, it costs a lot to make it stock again.

I DON'T DRAG OR HILL RACE!!! I actually DUNE and the system works great!

Its your money and you will have to choose which way to build your bike.

If you are going to be in the South Dunes T-day, I could meet you and show you my turbo DS 650.

By the way, a turbo quad has a unique sounds that draws al ot of looks.

 

Big bore ,, turbos are a PAIN!!!!!

 

A turbocharger should be bolted onto a "built" engine. The factory cast piston in no way can handle boost for any length of time. The factory ring end gaps are set for naturally asperated operation not turbocharging or nos. The factory valve spring seat pressure is WAY OFF when boost is added. I have already been in some stock motors with light boost and they had bad problems. Even putting a turbo on a built engine you must get the air fuel ratio under control on a dyno or you will have major problems.

I say these things so the unknowing first time buyer will not be stung by the false impression that a turbo is simply a bolt-on item.

 

[quote]
Originally posted by: MisterHP
A turbocharger should be bolted onto a "built" engine. The factory cast piston in no way can handle boost for any length of time. The factory ring end gaps are set for naturally asperated operation not turbocharging or nos. The factory valve spring seat pressure is WAY OFF when boost is added. I have already been in some stock motors with light boost and they had bad problems. Even putting a turbo on a built engine you must get the air fuel ratio under control on a dyno or you will have major problems.



Well you just put the total to 10K, time to start selling kidneys [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] That makes since, I am sure stock is not designed for that much HP. I am not for one system or the other, but it seems to me that the Turbo takes 20 or 30 yards to really get going. Am I correct on that? If that is the case I would think the big bore would be better for the on and off throttle action of duning. I just want the best over all picture on these. I appriciate everyones feedback.