Time for me to have new valves. Stock sized is where I'm staying. But where do I want to get them from, what material do I want them made of, what are you guys paying for them, and from where?

Like RWR and many other places charge $70 each for valves, but when I call around and also search the net, I find stainless steel performance valves for under $20 all over the place. Now I'm sure there is a reason here, and I'm sure somebody knows, so I need schooled. I am not trying to pick prices apart, I will pay whatever I need to for the quality I want - I do not want new valves that cup and tulip like the stock intakes do. But also don't want to drop serious dough if just aint necesary. Fire away and learn me some new stuff.

here is an example of a $17 stainless race valve http://www.rpmrons.com/SIrotax.html

 

www.stiegemeier.com Bob's the man Thats who's getting ready to do my head with ti or stainless valves with the bronze seats and guids this guy knows some $hit plus he's 30 minutes away

 

I didn't find any valve info at that site, what valves is he using on your head, what brand, material, and how much are you being charged per valve?

 

black nitride coated stainless from kibblewhite, $22 each

http://www.blackdiamondvalves.com/se...ke=9&CatName=2

boys it looks like I smell a racket with these $70 valves, correct me if I'm wrong but it seems rediculous.

 

Hey guys dont get me wrong Ron Woods racing does quality work and know what they are talking about. But when it comes to their parts you are going to pay. They wanted over $250.00 for a one way bearing that I got from a BMW dealer for $96.00. Same part go figure.

 

Valves


They may be able to help.

 

I did a search looking for a old post from marky about some valves he got that were the wrong size or cut at the wrong angle. I can't remember but he was posting to let everyone know about it but couldn't find it, it was a good post. While doing the valve search I found alot of posts about valves, porting & etc.... Some of the posts were no different three years ago about how much this cost from who or the other. It seems that the cheaper ones are out of business, no longer doing DS motor or no longer around. The ones that were higher in cost are still around. The ones that are cheaper are not. I'm not saying that the higher cost ones are better but they are still around.

It was scray reading about some bad valves from the older well known DS builders in the old posts. When ever you get a chance to do searches on any topic it's well worth it. I forgot about all the good info that this forums has in old posts.

I spent $50.00 for each valve I think, have seen $70.00 & $55.00 for each valve. I will still shop for a lower price but will not complain about it to them if I'm getting insurence & pleace of mind.

 

I've been following what the guys building the high dollar Hondas are running and Kibblewhite seems to be #1 on their list.

 

In high-rpm Raptors, I've heard that the KWs come apart, Ferrea are supposed to be the best. If price is no object, I'd look for Sodium-filled Ti.

 

Hightower the stock valves should actually last longer than any other valve on the market because of their valve job angle which is setup for longevity compared to a performance valve such as Kibblewhite. That being said KW makes great valves. The cupping could be from weak valve springs or simply high milage.

Stainless blanks are cheap to start with but they charge to cut them to the length you request and also charge to put the tripple groove in. If you get the KW stock size be shure and cut your cylinder head seats to the same angle and tell your cylinder head shop to take an absolute minimum cleanup because if they sink the valves too deep your thinnest shim will be too thick and you will have to "tip" the valves to gain your clearance back. Dont go too shallow or you wont have enough shim. Dont go grinding on the factory shims because it can break through the heat treat and get to soft material. Also check piston to valve clearance after install because the new valves can have a wider margin or set in the head more shallow which would cause static valve clearance to be tighter with the piston.

Most valves break because of improper setup. Weak spring pressure, coil bind, piston to valve clearance, etc.