your lectron setup???
#1
12-31-2005, 08:05 PM
your lectron setup???
could everyone that has a lectron tell us the setup they have for it like,
1.your elevation
2.needle position
3.adjusment that you have made
4.k&n in airbox,snorkle or straight on
5.what kind of intake porting that you've had done
please feel free to had something,thanks.
1.your elevation
2.needle position
3.adjusment that you have made
4.k&n in airbox,snorkle or straight on
5.what kind of intake porting that you've had done
please feel free to had something,thanks.
#2
01-01-2006, 05:08 AM
your lectron setup???
48 hv dont know about position of needle, i guess you could say im about at sea level. live in the san juaquin vally which is about 2 hours inland from the coast . the air mixture screw is 2 turns out and it will idle at about 2100. I dont have an air box but i still run the snorkal. I have the race porting on mine. where i live it is very hot so my bike runs rich, it has that dark look to the plug, but when i get to the coast after about an hour of riding that plug will get that nice golden light brown look to it. I dont know what it is about my bike but it seems like i have to adjust the idle screw a couple of times every trip i make. once i readjust it its good for 2 to 3 hours.
#3
01-01-2006, 01:56 PM
your lectron setup???
2big,
99% of idle issues are related to the cable. The Lectron setup has a finicky cable setup. Play with it and make sure there isn't even the slightest bind, also I have heard it is important to clean everything out and dry lube the cable from time to time since there are several places where small particles can get in if the conditions are right.
DSWolf,
I guess I don't know the position of my metering rod. HPR set it up for stock porting since they needed a baseline for me to adjust it. I had the porting done locally so when the carb came I had to lean it down by one full turn. I am running about 120 on the powerjet at sea level right on the ocean. (Air is highly oxygenated off the ocean, I have to feed the bike quite a bit more fuel there than I do just inland at about 500 ft. Elevation is part of it but air density is most I believe.)
Your intake needs to be ported to match your setup. If you run a 46mm or a 48mm, you will need to make sure the inside of the intake where it meets the carb is equal diameter to the inside dimension of the carb outlet. You will shoot yourself in the foot if the intake is smaller than the carb outlet because there will be a lip that is a brickwall for air flow..... not to mention a negative change in turbulance.
There are conflicting reports on snorkel or no snorkel setup. I have come to the conclusion that it depends somewhat on the setup how it responds to the air direction and speed. I run a snorkel because it trains the air entering the carb to run in a straight line as it sucks into the motor. Some guys have had trouble with turbulance and random air direction in the carb with a direct mount. I believe it caused poorer atomization and there were noticable flat spots in the powercurve (Noticable on a dyno at minimum). Others have not had this problem. I can only assume it has to do with intake porting and how the motor sucks air. I suppose the porting could have an effect on how evenly the air comes into the carb.......hmmm.
Anyway, I would stay with some snorkel if you can. What pipe are you running?
Are you asking because you think your 46mm is not tuned to its potential?
99% of idle issues are related to the cable. The Lectron setup has a finicky cable setup. Play with it and make sure there isn't even the slightest bind, also I have heard it is important to clean everything out and dry lube the cable from time to time since there are several places where small particles can get in if the conditions are right.
DSWolf,
I guess I don't know the position of my metering rod. HPR set it up for stock porting since they needed a baseline for me to adjust it. I had the porting done locally so when the carb came I had to lean it down by one full turn. I am running about 120 on the powerjet at sea level right on the ocean. (Air is highly oxygenated off the ocean, I have to feed the bike quite a bit more fuel there than I do just inland at about 500 ft. Elevation is part of it but air density is most I believe.)
Your intake needs to be ported to match your setup. If you run a 46mm or a 48mm, you will need to make sure the inside of the intake where it meets the carb is equal diameter to the inside dimension of the carb outlet. You will shoot yourself in the foot if the intake is smaller than the carb outlet because there will be a lip that is a brickwall for air flow..... not to mention a negative change in turbulance.
There are conflicting reports on snorkel or no snorkel setup. I have come to the conclusion that it depends somewhat on the setup how it responds to the air direction and speed. I run a snorkel because it trains the air entering the carb to run in a straight line as it sucks into the motor. Some guys have had trouble with turbulance and random air direction in the carb with a direct mount. I believe it caused poorer atomization and there were noticable flat spots in the powercurve (Noticable on a dyno at minimum). Others have not had this problem. I can only assume it has to do with intake porting and how the motor sucks air. I suppose the porting could have an effect on how evenly the air comes into the carb.......hmmm.
Anyway, I would stay with some snorkel if you can. What pipe are you running?
Are you asking because you think your 46mm is not tuned to its potential?
#4
01-01-2006, 02:36 PM
your lectron setup???
fmf titanium
i'm asking because i bought my lectron used,i started to port my intake but then i stopped i wanted to try the carb right now(curious to see if it whas going to start)so i put the carb on whit direct mount and it started but only whit the choke on when i take the choke off it dies and i had flames coming out of my fmf when i would give it gas.
i'm asking because i bought my lectron used,i started to port my intake but then i stopped i wanted to try the carb right now(curious to see if it whas going to start)so i put the carb on whit direct mount and it started but only whit the choke on when i take the choke off it dies and i had flames coming out of my fmf when i would give it gas.
#5
01-01-2006, 03:48 PM
Pro Rider
Has been here a long time!
Has been here a long time!
#6
01-01-2006, 04:47 PM
your lectron setup???
It is possible it has the wrong metering rod in it. If it came off a machine that was moving a lot more air than yours does, you may not be able to lean the metering rod enough. If the machine it was on before moved far less air than yours, you might not be able to richen it enough. I think metering rods are around $40 at HPR if you end up needing a different one.
Pull the three screws at the top of the carb in a clean environment and pull the slide out being very careful not to kink the throttle cable. Use a rag and a set of pliers to carefully (without marring the metering rod) turn it clockwise 1 full turn. The flat side should always be facing the motor, not the filter. Put it back together and fire it up, see if it is better. Don't push the metering rod up when you turn it this initial time (It might turn too hard for just your fingers but if it doesn't turn right away with the pliers and a rag, do not force it. Try turning it the other way to get it moving. It is threaded into plastic so it will strip easily with as much leverage as pliers afford). Pushing the rod up when you turn it will come into play later when you are fine tuning in half or quarter turn increments. If you make either 1/4 or 1/2 turns of the rod then push it up and turn it so you can return the flat side toward the motor.
If it starts right up and runs better, allows you to take the choke off then you went the right direction, let it warm up a bit and rev it to the moon achieving wide open throttle then let right off. The reason for this is if you have a lean metering rod and it was already at the end of its adjustment capabilities you might have trouble with it getting stuck in the wide open throttle position. If it does, hit the kill switch and call HPR for a new metering rod.
If the problem is worse then turn it two full turns counterclockwise so you are one full turn leaner than when you started. Keep careful track of you adjustments.
After you get it running good with the needle, we can deal with the powerjet located at the top of the front of the carb. That being said, when you rev the motor in your garage with the seat off, watch the tube from the bottom of the float bowl to the powerjet housing. If it sucks fuel up that tube almost immediately, your power jet is too big and will throw off your ability to accurately dial in your metering rod. Install a smaller one until the fuel doesn't start drwing up that tube until you are above 3/4 throttle for now. That piece of counsel is only to aid you in getting the metering rod dialed in correctly. Once that is as good as it seems to get, then you can start adding or subtracting on the powerjet to dial in your top end.
Tons of info....... Most of it probably wrong.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Good luck.
Ron
Pull the three screws at the top of the carb in a clean environment and pull the slide out being very careful not to kink the throttle cable. Use a rag and a set of pliers to carefully (without marring the metering rod) turn it clockwise 1 full turn. The flat side should always be facing the motor, not the filter. Put it back together and fire it up, see if it is better. Don't push the metering rod up when you turn it this initial time (It might turn too hard for just your fingers but if it doesn't turn right away with the pliers and a rag, do not force it. Try turning it the other way to get it moving. It is threaded into plastic so it will strip easily with as much leverage as pliers afford). Pushing the rod up when you turn it will come into play later when you are fine tuning in half or quarter turn increments. If you make either 1/4 or 1/2 turns of the rod then push it up and turn it so you can return the flat side toward the motor.
If it starts right up and runs better, allows you to take the choke off then you went the right direction, let it warm up a bit and rev it to the moon achieving wide open throttle then let right off. The reason for this is if you have a lean metering rod and it was already at the end of its adjustment capabilities you might have trouble with it getting stuck in the wide open throttle position. If it does, hit the kill switch and call HPR for a new metering rod.
If the problem is worse then turn it two full turns counterclockwise so you are one full turn leaner than when you started. Keep careful track of you adjustments.
After you get it running good with the needle, we can deal with the powerjet located at the top of the front of the carb. That being said, when you rev the motor in your garage with the seat off, watch the tube from the bottom of the float bowl to the powerjet housing. If it sucks fuel up that tube almost immediately, your power jet is too big and will throw off your ability to accurately dial in your metering rod. Install a smaller one until the fuel doesn't start drwing up that tube until you are above 3/4 throttle for now. That piece of counsel is only to aid you in getting the metering rod dialed in correctly. Once that is as good as it seems to get, then you can start adding or subtracting on the powerjet to dial in your top end.
Tons of info....... Most of it probably wrong.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Good luck.
Ron
#7
01-01-2006, 04:50 PM
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#10
01-02-2006, 03:38 AM
your lectron setup???
Wow! I bet it wasen't tuned properly on the previous bike. If anything the two setups shouldn't be too far apart. I have seen so many guys throw away their carbs or sell them because they thought it was a piece of crap but in reality they just never found the right tuning combination.
I have a buddy that had a TM45 on his Ron Wood Stage III DS. It was slow and would die after running wide open on the flat for about 20 seconds. Wait 5 seconds and it would start back up and off we would go. Turned out he had his accelerator pump open all the way, and was compensating by running a small mainjet. When that setup should have been running a 190 or 200 main, since the AP was throwing so much fuel at it, he had to run a 155 main to compensate. It ran decent, it was just slow. I offered to work on dialing it in but he had had it with the carb. He bought my old Lectron 46 and swears at that TM45 sitting on the shelf everytime he goes to the garage. It is a shame because it is a good carb and his bike would have been fast with it properly tuned.
I theorized the AP being wide open in conjunction with almost any mainjet would drain the float bowl killing the motor until it had time to refill. Stick with that lectron. You will love it once you get it dialed in.
Ron
I have a buddy that had a TM45 on his Ron Wood Stage III DS. It was slow and would die after running wide open on the flat for about 20 seconds. Wait 5 seconds and it would start back up and off we would go. Turned out he had his accelerator pump open all the way, and was compensating by running a small mainjet. When that setup should have been running a 190 or 200 main, since the AP was throwing so much fuel at it, he had to run a 155 main to compensate. It ran decent, it was just slow. I offered to work on dialing it in but he had had it with the carb. He bought my old Lectron 46 and swears at that TM45 sitting on the shelf everytime he goes to the garage. It is a shame because it is a good carb and his bike would have been fast with it properly tuned.
I theorized the AP being wide open in conjunction with almost any mainjet would drain the float bowl killing the motor until it had time to refill. Stick with that lectron. You will love it once you get it dialed in.
Ron