chouser, save your money (and your motor) on the cdi. The stock cams make peak power at about 6200-6300rpm. The factory rev box is set at 7900rpm. Power is way down by 7900rpm and the motor should be shifted before then anyway. Stock valve springs begin to float at about 8500rpm.

The RW pipe makes its best power beyond the rpm range of your stock cams. You wont believe what a carb and end cap will do for that stock motor!

 

I went with the Ron Woods pipe and TM45, 60 percent clutch springs and twist throttlle. I got my race ported intake from Mr. HP along with the Vortex CDI. I plan on sticking with Mr. HP for the rest of my mods.

 

chouser just order a lectron 46hv carb, race port intake and endcap from MRHP and you will notice a big difference and order some heavier springs or barnett 9 disc clutch from the guys in kentuckey MRHP PRODUCTS. RON WOODS STAGE 1 IS LIKE 1400BUCKS, YOU CAN ORDER ALL OF THAT FOR LIKE 1200-1300 BUCKS AND UNTIL YOU DO SOME MORE MODS THEN YOU WILL NEED A CDI. JUST MY 2 CENTS[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

Only problem is if you ride in an area that has spark arrested requirements, then the HPR endcap will not work for you. The HMF sport pipe is awesome, and also has an available quite core if Db levels are an issue... Also, On Dunes should be open soon, and they have a spark arrested end cap that is very good. I run the HMF, and my dad has the ODP spark arrested end cap. Both are very good quality, and much cheaper the a full exhaust system.

 

Chouser, I have a Stage 1 (HMF pipe instead of woods) and it made a huge difference in power. I found that I was at my rev limiter all the time, so I did put a RW CDI on and like it.
The other thing to consider is clutch and springs. The 60% stiffer springs really made a difference, they really put the pwer to the wheels.

And BTW welcome to the site, you will be amazed at what you can learn in here from these guys.

 

This just reminded me of how my build progressed heres what I did.

1. HPR end cap
2. No-Toil Filter
3. Proper Jetting on stock carb. 1 thru 3 big gain! Lots of good mods on stock carb talk to oldmanracing
4. removed air box good for a little extra
5. 15t counter sprocket
6. DG slip on pipe (needed it quieter in some places) Decent pipe for the money
7. 730 Jug and Piston kit
8. Ported intake
9. Lectron 48 + Moose throttle and cable
10. Had the head ported, underbucket springs & oversized the valves installed
11. Web 109 cams
12. Re-ported intake for ported head
13. 17. Vortex ignitiion
14. RW 60% springs
15. Ace fab +4 swingarm
16. K&N Filter/ Outerwear
17. Boondocker Nitrous system
18. OEM Clutch and Redline 80% Springs (clutch wouldnt hold on nitrous)
19. CT Racing pipe (disc system)
20. Magura hydraulic clutch (still cant get it to work)
21. ODP water pump.

You have to pick a direction and stick with it or you will throw alot of money away. I have had three different exhausts, two different filters, clutch springs, Intake ported twice, and a cam change coming soon. And probably alot more that I have forgot about. I think the biggest bang for the buck is the end cap and no-toil filter.

 

Wow Scatterbrain,
I would have thought the 730 kit would have given you the biggest bang for the buck ?
No ?
Or is the Nitrous about the best bang ?

 

You should see how much he smiles when he hits the button...and how much he pouts when the bottle runs dry [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Sorry Scatter, could not resist!!!

 

To be honest, If I had to do it all over again I probably would have stayed stock bore. High comp piston, Race head, EFI, Nitrous and alot of lightweight parts for my duner. My next build is going to be alot wilder.

 

Best bang for the buck............. good pipe, K&N filter and nitrous.