Okay guys, i just ordered a JE 11.5:1 piston. I need to know exactly what I all need to go with it, in terms of gaskets and such, i already know i need a new head gasket, and im wondering what else i need. I wanna know also how long do u think this install will take? Me and a friend who has already pulled pistons on various Utility atvs are gonna do this. Also need to know if i keep the stock timing, or time it differently and i need to know about ring gaps and ring placements, thanks.

 

Get a repair manual... it will tell you the gaps, otherwise some of the other guys might know the gaps. Just remember not too get into more than you are capable.

 

you need head gasket and base gasket, that's all. the piston will come with wrist pin and clips.

do not use stock ring gap specs, the ring gap specs for your new JE piston will be WAY different from the stock specs. the new piston is forged, the old stocker is cast, they have totally different expansion rates and ring gaps. Only JE can tell you the gap specs for their piston. if the info does not come with your piston kit, try their websight, or contact HPR since they deal JE.

rings have a torsional bend to them - they must be installed the right side up - they all will have something etched on them indicating the top side, either letters or numbers, but whatever marking is on the ring indicates the up side.

be certain to have a spiral crosshatch honed in your cylinder, at the right angle for proper ring break-in.

its the little things that get all the extra power that so many are missing - ring gap, cylinder hone, proper assebmly, etc. they all matter.

 

also i need to know what the torque settings are for anything that needs to be torqued on to a specific amount, thanks guys

 

The 4 Main head bolt nuts - shop manual says 44ft.lbs., THEBOM says only go to 40ft.lbs., HPR says 37ft.lbs.
I have rebuilt twice - once 4 years ago I went 44 before I knew of this, the second time I went 40, never had an issue either time. Take your pic - but don't go over 40.

water jacket bolts - 24ft.lbs.

hex head cam bridge bolts - 89in.lbs.

bolts for the plastic bridge between cam sprockets - 89in.lbs. with blue locktight on cleaned threads.

lube all threads and nut shoulders with oil or assembly lube so your torque setting is not having to overcome thread friction and its a true reading of gasket compression.

install gaskets dry like they come packaged, onto clean surfaces with no silly "magic" sealers.



you can also go to HPresearch.net, click on engine parts, then cams, then instructions, and they have online instructions for all this half way down the page.

 

Hightower,

Interesting. BMW F650 shop manual for stock components - torque specs main head bolts and water jacket bolts are 50 and 30nm (or 36.87 and 22.12 ft-lbs by one web conversion tool). Clean threads and continous torque motion assumed. Mr. HP said HPR used BMW F650 manual since it was more complete than Bombardier manual, which agrees with 37 ft-lb measures cited. For reference only.

 

yes that is interesting, I think that explains it. The bombardier manual seems to be riddled with incorrect info, I have found several conversions from metric to inch that were wrong, also a couple temp conversions from F to C that were wrong too...
also misprints in the book - places where zeros or decimal places were left out. its like the french dude converting to american isn't paying enough attention to important details! I bet whatever mexican they get to convert in the future, when they move production to mexico in '07, doesn't screw it up as bad!

 

"I bet whatever mexican they get to convert in the future, when they move production to mexico in '07, doesn't screw it up as bad! "

Its really hard to know what will be manufactured where or published where, unless you have inside information. But made in MX has not been a sign of quality to date, having consulted for manufacturing in MX. 100% of VW beetles were recalled among other things. Mexicans are very dexterous skilled labor, but they have a laid back attitude. Since the country was picked up and relocated to China in last decade, maybe they will start to show some urgency. But industry doesnt want to pay them anything. They give them living quarters for married or room mates if single; and 2 large all you can eat meals per day. Kind of like US Army (I'm a Veteran). Army will scare tactic you to death though. MX owns factories in their country, so companies are limited to what they can can control. The people always figure out how to screw the boss man, like any where else, unless you treat them right.

I am going to hold on to my bike and truck as long as I can. China's quality is very suspect for any complicated product as well, even though they have better education than US on average. But they like anywhere on earth, will also screw the big boss man, if he screws them. One thing you learn very quickly in manufacturing systems is peoples commitment can make or break any system no matter how good, how automated, or how expensive. CEO Accountants have never figured that out yet, and generally have never been on a manufacturing floor to see what earns their salary.

 

another question, i regularly change my oil but it seems that i havent been putting in the correct ammounts? i pull the drain plug, let it all drain out, then change the filter. after i do that put the plug back in. i put 1 whole quart in. then i get about 1/2 the way through the second quart it fills all the way to the top of the dip stick holder. after it does that i turn it on and it sucks it all in, so i add a little bit more, put the dipstick in, check the oil level and the oil level shows up Good on the dipstick. should that be right because i read it should take 3.3 quarts to fill, but if it is showing full on my dipstick, and my engine is still going fine how can this be?

 

Are you draining both case and tank? I noticed you only wrote drain "plug" (singular). There are two plugs, (tank/case). I put a whole gallon in mine every time.