Valve spring replacement with head on
#1
Is it possible
I jumped ahead of myself to-night and installed my cylinder head before remembering I was converting to the shim under the backet. I am installing a 730 HPR kit with cams as well.
If I have to remove the head to replace the spring can i reuse the head gasket ???
Thanks for the help in advance
I jumped ahead of myself to-night and installed my cylinder head before remembering I was converting to the shim under the backet. I am installing a 730 HPR kit with cams as well.
If I have to remove the head to replace the spring can i reuse the head gasket ???
Thanks for the help in advance
#3
ditto......
HT is absolutely correct.
And I wouldn't use a head gasket either. And before you go ripping the head off, you'll need to purchase a tool (which I have found to be just about impossible), or make a tool yourself. The tool is a vavle spring compresser.
HT is absolutely correct.
And I wouldn't use a head gasket either. And before you go ripping the head off, you'll need to purchase a tool (which I have found to be just about impossible), or make a tool yourself. The tool is a vavle spring compresser.
#4
Pulled the head off again this afternoon to replaced the valve springs and install the shim under the bucket set up.
This has to be the hardest head to get the spring out of. I borrowed a valve spring compressor and fought with it for some time. Finally after using sockets on both ends of it I got one spring out. There is no way that I can put a spring back in thought using the sockets on the end of the compressor. No room to install the locks.
As well the new HPR spring are some frigen stiff, I am not sure how to ever get these in !!!
Any Suggestions
What kind of spring compressor can be used to service this head ???
The HPR instructions for the shim under the bucket kit suck.
1. - What order does every thing go in - i know the instructions say which order the stuff goes, but a picture sure would be handy to know what they are talking about.
2. - Do I use the shim that was in the old set up and where does it go. It does no seem to fit well in the under side of the new bucket - slops around.
3. - Do i still have to check the clearance after everything is installed ? Or will it be ok to fire it up this way. The motor has not run since I installed all the new parts.
Thanks guys
This has to be the hardest head to get the spring out of. I borrowed a valve spring compressor and fought with it for some time. Finally after using sockets on both ends of it I got one spring out. There is no way that I can put a spring back in thought using the sockets on the end of the compressor. No room to install the locks.
As well the new HPR spring are some frigen stiff, I am not sure how to ever get these in !!!
Any Suggestions
What kind of spring compressor can be used to service this head ???
The HPR instructions for the shim under the bucket kit suck.
1. - What order does every thing go in - i know the instructions say which order the stuff goes, but a picture sure would be handy to know what they are talking about.
2. - Do I use the shim that was in the old set up and where does it go. It does no seem to fit well in the under side of the new bucket - slops around.
3. - Do i still have to check the clearance after everything is installed ? Or will it be ok to fire it up this way. The motor has not run since I installed all the new parts.
Thanks guys
#5
I, like Bigdaddy, made a tool. I used a big socket that fit the diameter of the valve retainer, milled a window in two sides to stick the keeper thru, welded it to a c-clamp. there are compressors made that you can buy but they are pricy.
the order is put the steel spring bottom in first flat side down, then replace the valve seals IF they had been removed (they get damaged during removal - the lip gets torn - but if they never got removed then they are still fine), then the dual springs next, then the titanium retainer. compress it to expose the triple groove on the valve stem, then dab assembly tube on the triple groove to keep the keepers stuck in place as you release the compression, insert the keepers with tiny needle nose or a magnet.
the shim under retainers have a lip that hold the new shims - the shims sit right on top the valve stem under the bucket - they are 13mm in diameter. the old shims are no longer used, they do not fit anywhere.
yes you will have to check clearance and adjust shims accordingly. your kit should have came with 4 shims, a little smaller than a dime the are. but they may not be the right thickness, it all depends on valve and seat wear, and base circle diameter of the cams.
the order is put the steel spring bottom in first flat side down, then replace the valve seals IF they had been removed (they get damaged during removal - the lip gets torn - but if they never got removed then they are still fine), then the dual springs next, then the titanium retainer. compress it to expose the triple groove on the valve stem, then dab assembly tube on the triple groove to keep the keepers stuck in place as you release the compression, insert the keepers with tiny needle nose or a magnet.
the shim under retainers have a lip that hold the new shims - the shims sit right on top the valve stem under the bucket - they are 13mm in diameter. the old shims are no longer used, they do not fit anywhere.
yes you will have to check clearance and adjust shims accordingly. your kit should have came with 4 shims, a little smaller than a dime the are. but they may not be the right thickness, it all depends on valve and seat wear, and base circle diameter of the cams.
#6
I've re-used the MLS head gasket before.
Preacher can make you the valve spring compressor tool but, I'ld send the parts off the Preacher anoth with your cams and have him do it. He'll lap the valves and give everything a once over. Probably won't cost you more than about $100 to $200 and you'll have the piece of mind knowing it was done right.
The way I usually do projects is start on it and F. . er . . . mess it up somehow and end up costing myself more than I would have spent having someone that knows what they are doing and has all the right tools, do it right the first time.
I would guess Preacher, HP Research and Ron Wood would all be able to do this quickly, in-expensively and with good quality. You usually can't get all these items.
Preacher can make you the valve spring compressor tool but, I'ld send the parts off the Preacher anoth with your cams and have him do it. He'll lap the valves and give everything a once over. Probably won't cost you more than about $100 to $200 and you'll have the piece of mind knowing it was done right.
The way I usually do projects is start on it and F. . er . . . mess it up somehow and end up costing myself more than I would have spent having someone that knows what they are doing and has all the right tools, do it right the first time.
I would guess Preacher, HP Research and Ron Wood would all be able to do this quickly, in-expensively and with good quality. You usually can't get all these items.
#7
Thanks guys
Always appreciate the help
I am going to try and find a machine shop or bike/sled shop that will put the head together for me. I am about an hour away from the best snowmobiling in the counrty (Revelstroke, Britsh Columbia) with lots of guys doing all kinds of customer sled stuff, so they has to be somebody that can work on my head around here.
I will have to wait for another head gasket so, I have a few days before I can get one from the HPR boys.
Always appreciate the help
I am going to try and find a machine shop or bike/sled shop that will put the head together for me. I am about an hour away from the best snowmobiling in the counrty (Revelstroke, Britsh Columbia) with lots of guys doing all kinds of customer sled stuff, so they has to be somebody that can work on my head around here.
I will have to wait for another head gasket so, I have a few days before I can get one from the HPR boys.
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#8
I tried snap-on, matco, craftsman, lyle, etc. etc. Nobody makes the tool. Even went to the dealer and they were no help. Made my own as HT did with the basic pattern. I only cut one window thow. Used an impact deep well as for a socket and the window it about 65 - 75% of the socket. Actually looks and works fantastic.
Make sure that when you have the machine shop do the work, you tell them NOT to cut the stems for clearance.
Good luck
Make sure that when you have the machine shop do the work, you tell them NOT to cut the stems for clearance.
Good luck
#9
[
Make sure that when you have the machine shop do the work, you tell them NOT to cut the stems for clearance.
Good luck[/quote]
If you don't cut the stems there isn't much of the shim in the retainer, is that a problem? Thats why my builder made valves instead of using the Woods valves I had with the shim unders. Sorry about hi-jacking the thread.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
Make sure that when you have the machine shop do the work, you tell them NOT to cut the stems for clearance.
Good luck[/quote]
If you don't cut the stems there isn't much of the shim in the retainer, is that a problem? Thats why my builder made valves instead of using the Woods valves I had with the shim unders. Sorry about hi-jacking the thread.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
#10
All the shims I got with the kit from HPR are marked 2-05. I guess that make them all the same size- nice to think we are in a perfect world. I am sure that my luck will have me needing different shims.
Do I have to get the shims from HPR ???
Do I have to get the shims from HPR ???


