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Piston connecting rod

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  #21  
Old 10-22-2019 | 05:54 AM
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3mm off the diameter of the journal it was 48mm to fit the bushing now it’s 45mm to for the bearing id
 
  #22  
Old 10-22-2019 | 09:27 AM
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one other thing I forgot to mention the crank case bushing part#420233680 is not available anymore so you need the opposite side bushing part#420233677 and have a oil groove cut into the center of the bushing for oil to feed the crank and to lube itself
 
  #23  
Old 10-22-2019 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by scopil
3mm off the diameter of the journal it was 48mm to fit the bushing now it’s 45mm to for the bearing id

Ohh ok ok, so u just grind the center of the crank pin to fit the bearing..
 
  #24  
Old 10-22-2019 | 12:28 PM
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that's correct the cage on the bearing takes up most of the width but still stays under the 23mm you need to clear the crank lobe
 
  #25  
Old 10-22-2019 | 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by scopil
that's correct the cage on the bearing takes up most of the width but still stays under the 23mm you need to clear the crank lobe

I'm very sorry for the insistence😅😅
The bearing splits at half? Or how u insert the bearing in to the crank pin,? If u grind only the center of the pin.. and both ends has more width than the center?
 
  #26  
Old 10-23-2019 | 02:17 PM
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Default Crank bearing

Originally Posted by scopil
that's correct the cage on the bearing takes up most of the width but still stays under the 23mm you need to clear the crank lobe


Copy! My last question, if the bearing diameter is less than the crank pin, how do you install it? U grind only the center of the pin, not the sides of it, or can you split the cage of the bearing for installation? The bearing will not fit on the sides of the pin...🤔
 
  #27  
Old 10-23-2019 | 02:33 PM
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The ends of the crank pin that get pressed into the lobes are 44mm you will be grinding the pin from 48mm to 45mm in the center you have to slow grind to .001/side so you don’t create to much gap but 45mm is just reference then press the pin and lives together again making sure the lines are aligned to each other
 
  #28  
Old 11-09-2019 | 09:14 AM
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Default Last question 🙊

Originally Posted by scopil
The ends of the crank pin that get pressed into the lobes are 44mm you will be grinding the pin from 48mm to 45mm in the center you have to slow grind to .001/side so you don’t create to much gap but 45mm is just reference then press the pin and lives together again making sure the lines are aligned to each other


The outside measure of the bearing fits perfectly on the connecting rod? No grind or any other modification has to be made on the rod? Only in the pin... right?
I ordered the bearing instead of just installing a new bushing, I want my crank last forever 😅
 
  #29  
Old 11-09-2019 | 12:17 PM
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The only grinding needed is where the connecting rod contacts the crank pin the bearing is 1mm narrower than the connecting rod. Make sure you smooth hone the connecting rod bore where the bearing will ride, I installed an oil pressure gauge to monitor levels because your removing the resistance from the rod bushing but oil pressures seem to be maintaining 7at idle and 44 at 6000 rpm ( roughly)
 
  #30  
Old 11-09-2019 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by scopil
The only grinding needed is where the connecting rod contacts the crank pin the bearing is 1mm narrower than the connecting rod. Make sure you smooth hone the connecting rod bore where the bearing will ride, I installed an oil pressure gauge to monitor levels because your removing the resistance from the rod bushing but oil pressures seem to be maintaining 7at idle and 44 at 6000 rpm ( roughly)

Right! The oil pump should feed both crank cases bushings and the needle bearing on the same way isn't it? It shouldn't be difference on the oil pressure..
 



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