After trying to PM folks and my pop up blocker being on roids I have to post this and rehash stuff that is more than likely posted or could be taken care of in PM's

Well after coming from my 450R and getting used to the DS and being able to lug around in third all the time I have made up my mind to start the quest for more getty-up. Just a little back ground where I came from on the R. The R was 14.1 480 port polish, stock valves HRC cam FCR beast. Power everywhere but it was a have to be wound up or in the right gear type of thing and I also felt a little cramped on the thing (602, 220). What I really miss about the R is he instant power open it up and it was there. With my DS I just dont get that feeling, but with 650cc I sure I came come up with something. Here are my questions and what I have planned.

First of all I went to the HPR end cap and jetting and to my surprize it actully felt better and stronger. I also went to ITP GNCC's and that help a bunch to get the power to the ground. But in the tight turn a corner and up the hill I need more.

I purchased a TM45 off ebay that was told to be a RWR carb with the adapter softer return spring ac pump there and was all set up to go I have not got it yet so I dont know if it is all true or not. When I get the carb I would like to send it off to someone who has more knowledge and experience with the TM than I have. I have always been an FCR guy andd know any thing about the TM except for what I have read. Who should I send this thing to to do a good once over and make sure it is set up right (softer return springs etc etc?)

Why did he buy the TM in instead of the Lectron well I ll tell you to end thast debate I LIKE A PUMPER STYLE CARB end of debate

Next is onto the intake which one for the carb HRP's or RWR not to get into a who is better, but which one will work the best with the TM. I could also use some jetting help at about 500 feet with the air box

I plan on doing the carb and intake and clutch springs at the same time.

Next on to compression I like compression so the 14.1 will be put in race gas is not a issuse, but I dont get the gapless second ring why the need for it. I have heard of gapless rings but have never used them any pros or cons

Next will be the cams which I have no clue on. I ride in the woods mostly and want low and mid (Yes I know just drop a tooth on the front sprocket but why not build to the gearing and keep the top end). Also I want to run stock valves and springs it just a thing of mine if all possibale With my R I was able to go with a mid to top end cam because of the compression and it worked great can I do that here. Any suggestions?

Piston and cams will be done at the same time.

Last but not least how long can I run just the end cap honestly. DS headers flow like a race header they say I dont know if I fully have faith in that but I have been wrong before.

Any help or suggestions would be great or anyone with good parts let me know

Thanks
Clove

 

Hightower on the tm45. The RW porting is minimal. You can do more yourself. I like HPR's porting.

Cams with the 14-1? You can go many routes. You can go with more top end as you noted, and still have a good bottom end. If you want a great cam, HR 3's. If you want a good cam without having to go to shim unders, 109's, or HR 2's.

I have ran the stock pipe with end cap on a stage two. It runs fine, just does not rev out like a good pipe will. It stuffs it up at about 7000rpm. Thats leaving alot on the table.

Dont forget about a rev box.

 

Carb: Hightower
Porting: HPR[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img][img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img](I likey)
Cams: HR3's or 4' w/ shim under conversion
Pipe: Get a full pipe if your doing cams.

Like Viper said get the rev box, especially if your doing cams. Good luck!

 

Talk to "THEBOM" Jeff Ross he is a Pami and Ron Wood dealer and a great builder. Get your intake through him and have him set up your carb. Also go with A1 A2 Woods cams, they pull hard from bottom to top. I dont believe for one second that the stock head pipe flows like a race header. So I suggest the Woods Rotax full exaust, and if noise isnt an issue you can take off the silencer and get a Woods drag pipe. Then go with the woods 14:1 piston and that thing will scream especially if Jeff sets it up for ya.

www.thebomracing.com[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

I enjoy combing over used tm's and tweeking them and don't worry about cost cause I don't charge, its a hobby. pm me and I'll give you my shipping address, send the carb with a prepaid UPS label to return, or just paypal me return shipping. if it needs parts I will order and you can paypal me the parts money and shipping.

pipe choice, consider more than just power also consider where you ride, if you are a woods trail rider and hit creeks then you may be best off sticking with stainless steel. I run ceramic coated stock header and HMF slipon for this very reason, and also have versatility of sparky insert and sound insert since I travel to places that require them, there are plenty of places you cannot ride with an open end cap.

gapless rings, well they are just another tiny little thing that no is not necesary but yes can make a tiny difference when combined with many other things of equally tiny value. some will say gapless rings are no good, and that they are no better than conventional as long as conventional are gapped correctly. the way I see it is that no gap at all just seems like a better seal than even the tiniest of gaps. for what its worth, word on street that I have read in mulitple locations is that a properly gapped convetional ring can give 10% leakdown, gapless ring set 1%. does this equate to another quad length in a drag race? I don't think so. but power gain or not, there is zero blowby meaning absolutely no oil out the crankcase vent tube, not even a dribble ever out of mine. Even brand new DS's with cast pistons that run a much tighter ring gap than aftermarket forged pistons typically dribble a little oil from the crankcase vent tube every ride, a product of poor vent tube barb placement on the stator cover IMO but if positive crankcase pressure is elliminated then by by oil messy.