Has anyone tried to stroke the ds out? Was it using the stock bore and stock piston? How far can you stroke it out?? Thinking about doing it on mine. Need all the input I can take! Thanks

 

Sandbomber has a stroker 855 I believe. Call HPR, they deal with falicon cranks and are the distributer for them... the stroker on a stock bore will increase the displacement to 715cc.

 

Here is a link to Falicon.

 

Thanks alot......I will check into it!!!

 

The longest stroke on a stock bore that I am aware of and that has been blueprinted is an 8mm which is a 715 as FatHolly has indicated. You could do less stroke, but why?[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

I personally think a stroker stock bore is an awsome setup. I think as a race motor it will build much better curves and rev considerably quicker than a big bore of equal or slightly larger displacement.............

One neat thing about the 715 is you can run the compression all the way up to 15.5:1[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img].....Thanks to the added stroke[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] If the deck height remains the same but the cylinder volume is greater, .........the result is higher compression ratio[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Strokers are spendy and I would do some tranny work while the cases are split. Backcut gears, new shift forks.......

 

That is what that site said that Holly posted. That they recommend changing out the forks and lightening up the flywheel up as well. Everything in that tranny has to be replaced. They have the 5mm, 8mm, and 10mm strokes. Definitly going to be looking more into this!!

 

Oh..........I didn't go to the link, sorry for the redundancy[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

I don't think anyone has run a 10mm on a stock cylinder. I only know of that stroker being run in a 108.5mm big bore stroker that has a very long skirt on the cylinder...........so long, they had to machine the cases to accept it!!!

I have a plus 8mm and i love it............weren't cheap though..........

 

Don't worry about the redunancy part......we all make mistakes [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Thanks for the input. It is open my eyes on what is out there.

 

From the looks of things you can take the 650 as far as you can afford to. =]

 

Stroke. . . yep. . .

What are you looking to do?

I wouldn't suggest a real aggressive stroke unless this is a drag only bike. I believe (if I remember correctly) even HP Research has said that.

I run a Team Pami 760 that has a 105.5mm Bore (new Cast Jug) and an off-set pin for the stock connecting rod for the stroke. I dune this bike now and drag race it very little. Love the torque.

As for the gears / tranny and flywheel. . . You have a 2001. . . replace all the shift forks. . . they are about $50 each and the newer ones are harder from what I understand. On the tranny, I used to have a Pami 760 that was built up very well with much more power than I have and it didn't have the undercut tranny. You don't need it. An undercut tranny will NOT make the tranny stronger, it will just give you a better chance of the gears going together on your shifts. I doubt most people need it but. . . . I must admit. . . I've got an undercut tranny with cryo treated gears. I'ld go directly to the source for this work otherwise you are just paying mark-up to someone for them to send things out UPS. Let me know and I can get you the contact. What you are having undercut is the engagement dogs. Undercutting them will help pull the gears together under load. http://www.vf750fd.com/blurbs/shifting.html (for info on gears / tranny). . . . I think these are the guys I had do my undercutting / cryo treating: http://www.murdochracing.com/index.htm
Lastly, the flywheel. . . I had Ron (known as The Preacher here) do my flywheel. Ron's labor rate is downright cheap and his work quality is second to none. Contact The Bomb Racing and he can get this done.

The big difference between the Pami and the HP Research strokers is the crank bearing. On the Pami it is a brass bearing, on the Falicon it is a roller bearing. I remember talking to Falicon (I think this was before HP Research was doing any of the things they are now) and they were a bit cocky about how the roller is the "only" way to go and nothing else will last. . . I'll just say that if you are selling a product you should believe that strongly in it. I'm sure the needle bearing is a nice set-up but, on the same note, the Pami bearing works great too. . . afterall, this is the same bearing Rotax puts in the motor stock.

What kind of head work do you have or are you looking to do?

You are looking at a lot of power on a bike that has head-work and bore / stroke. The sand can suck that power up but, if you are just riding on hardpack, you'll probably hardly notice the power gains because your tires will be smoking so much.

For general riding, I like a Ron Wood Stage III type of a set-up. On-Dunes, The Bomb Racing, TVI and HP Research all offer similar kits. . . Ron Wood is just the only one that has a clear-cut kit. You are going to save a TON of money with this set-up and you'll have a ton of power.