720 Velocity, flame travel combustion chamber flow
#11
Since I don't particularly trust your intentions in asking the questions, why don't you tell me what you are thinking on the subject.........That will help me to know if I should respond further................
#12
Originally posted by: DSNUT
Since I don't particularly trust your intentions in asking the questions, why don't you tell me what you are thinking on the subject.........That will help me to know if I should respond further................
Since I don't particularly trust your intentions in asking the questions, why don't you tell me what you are thinking on the subject.........That will help me to know if I should respond further................
#14
I agree with Nut, and if I were building a pure duner the 11.5:1 motor would probably be my choice. That is if I was a normal sized human being. The difference power wise between what I have now and my stage 2 was enormous. Then again, It's got 4 times the $$ wrapped up in it.
For those of you reading this post, you'll eventually have to make a choice between Dunes/Trails and Dune/Race. What I mean is that if you are a guy/girl that likes to dune through the roller coasters and go on the long rides.... the 11.5:1 is right up your ally. With a good cam choice, your rig will do everything you ask it to and more. If you are someone who wants to dune, but spends a great deal of time at the bottom of the hill looking for the next race.... you need to save your pennies and do it right the first time. I've had just about every configuration going, and I'm here to tell you that I would have saved a bunch of money if I would have went big the first time around. Be honest with yourself and know what you are all about.
If you are the second of the afore mentioned, then you need to build something like Ron and I have. They are simply monsters that do everything well and everything awesome. If you are a guy that's my size or even bigger like 2big, you may want to go large but stick to a more mild cam (like an HPR3) set. I have more radical cams, but I love to do the hill drag stuff. Then again, I'm a stealthy 269ish as I type - thank you very much! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
ER does have an interesting cam choice, and it should be interesting to see his results on a calibrated dyno or against something on a hill that has a reported power output.
Good luck ER, and I hope it all comes together well for you.
RON, don't you need to be doing some packing right now and get on the road for DS DAYS???
ah, just trying to talk you into it. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
For those of you reading this post, you'll eventually have to make a choice between Dunes/Trails and Dune/Race. What I mean is that if you are a guy/girl that likes to dune through the roller coasters and go on the long rides.... the 11.5:1 is right up your ally. With a good cam choice, your rig will do everything you ask it to and more. If you are someone who wants to dune, but spends a great deal of time at the bottom of the hill looking for the next race.... you need to save your pennies and do it right the first time. I've had just about every configuration going, and I'm here to tell you that I would have saved a bunch of money if I would have went big the first time around. Be honest with yourself and know what you are all about.
If you are the second of the afore mentioned, then you need to build something like Ron and I have. They are simply monsters that do everything well and everything awesome. If you are a guy that's my size or even bigger like 2big, you may want to go large but stick to a more mild cam (like an HPR3) set. I have more radical cams, but I love to do the hill drag stuff. Then again, I'm a stealthy 269ish as I type - thank you very much! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
ER does have an interesting cam choice, and it should be interesting to see his results on a calibrated dyno or against something on a hill that has a reported power output.
Good luck ER, and I hope it all comes together well for you.
RON, don't you need to be doing some packing right now and get on the road for DS DAYS???
ah, just trying to talk you into it. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
#15
Originally posted by: rcoop
I'm just wondering your thoughts on does this happen at all rpms with big overlap cams or mostly at low rpms?
I'm just wondering your thoughts on does this happen at all rpms with big overlap cams or mostly at low rpms?
ERBE, it looks to me like everyone is already being nice. I am simply being cautious also[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
#16
Originally posted by: ERBEDS650
STOCK CAM SPECS
0.389"lift
236deg. duration
Originally posted by: rcoop
What cam profile is that?
What cam profile is that?
STOCK CAM SPECS
0.389"lift
236deg. duration
Those are "shelf" cams right?
#19
When building up a motor, you first must define what type of ridiing you do and what are your expectations.
Remember in the end, all that matters is if you are happy with the end result.
I see over the years many guys build up their motor and because it does not meet their expectations, they end up either building another motor(usually a new builder) or they buy another brand of quads.
Research can be fun and don't get hungup with trying to build the fastest quad on earth. I'ved learn long ago that there is always someone alittle faster around the corner. Just have fun. Build around your budget and goals.
Back to the topic. Always remember that this is a single cylinder four stroke motor. This is not a car V-8.
The heart of a motor is the head, cam and piston compression. They must be balanced per your application.
The stock head is good for 60hp. Mild port and bigger valves 65-70.
The cam sets the rpm range you find best for the application you want to ride in.
The piston must be matched for the cam and riding style.
For hot trail machine you want to have a dynamic compression ratio in the 8.5 to 9.0 area.
This allows you to use street gas. If you run a higher compression, then you have to use higher octane fuel.
If the cam is a short duration type and you run too high a compression, you will gain more torque, but you will start to lose top horsepower. The power needed to compress the mixture at high rpm's will lose power because the flow will not support the rpm range. Do not build a diesel, build a motor with the widest useable power band.
Match the cam with the best usable compression for the rpm range/style of riding you are looking for.
OMR
Remember in the end, all that matters is if you are happy with the end result.
I see over the years many guys build up their motor and because it does not meet their expectations, they end up either building another motor(usually a new builder) or they buy another brand of quads.
Research can be fun and don't get hungup with trying to build the fastest quad on earth. I'ved learn long ago that there is always someone alittle faster around the corner. Just have fun. Build around your budget and goals.
Back to the topic. Always remember that this is a single cylinder four stroke motor. This is not a car V-8.
The heart of a motor is the head, cam and piston compression. They must be balanced per your application.
The stock head is good for 60hp. Mild port and bigger valves 65-70.
The cam sets the rpm range you find best for the application you want to ride in.
The piston must be matched for the cam and riding style.
For hot trail machine you want to have a dynamic compression ratio in the 8.5 to 9.0 area.
This allows you to use street gas. If you run a higher compression, then you have to use higher octane fuel.
If the cam is a short duration type and you run too high a compression, you will gain more torque, but you will start to lose top horsepower. The power needed to compress the mixture at high rpm's will lose power because the flow will not support the rpm range. Do not build a diesel, build a motor with the widest useable power band.
Match the cam with the best usable compression for the rpm range/style of riding you are looking for.
OMR
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