Well I don't see how the CDI would cause a shake at low RPM unless your RPMs are fluctuating rapidly.

 

The RW has 4 more degree's of timing at the bottom than the Big Gun.
If your carb is not setup to be able to be richer in the mid-range, it will cause a lean condition, that may cause a stumbling response.

 

Here's the deal with the shaking. . . I never noticed it with the dirt tires on but when I put the paddles on the bike it was like a small lurch each time the piston hit its power stroke. At low-medium speeds this would translate into shaking so bad you could hardly stand to hang onto the handlebars. I was confused at first, but then to load the bike I put the dirt tires back on and voila! no more shaking. . . However when looking at the tracks made in the sand, you could literally see where the rear tires would slip on each of the piston's combustion strokes. It made the tracks of the dirt tires look almost like those of paddles in the soft sand.

Once I realized that the extra traction of the paddles would not allow this slip and this was probably manifesting itself as a shaking in the bike, I pulled the RWR CDI and when with a stock one I got off eBay for $1. The bike has never shaken like that since, but I lost my high R's.

I called RWR and they said they had little experience with paddles as they were a dirt-track racing company but they thought the issue sounded plausible with the advanced lower ignition curve, and their only recommendation was to keep my R's up while riding with paddles.

This is, of course, just one guy's experience. . .

 

What carb are you running when this shaking takes place?

 

I am running the Mikuni flat-slide that came with the RWR stage one kit. It seems to be tuned really well with great throttle response throughout the spectrum. As part of the stage one kit, I also have a direct connect K&N filter and the full RWR exhaust set up.

Now that I think about it, my riding style has kind of changed since I changed the CDI back to stock. It might be a good time to re-install the RWR CDI and take it for a spin. I have a dunes trip coming up - I'll try it and let you know if it really is as easy as just keeping your R's up.

 

What about a dynatech ignition. You can get programable models cheaper that a Vortec and you can program yourself if you buy the kit.

 

I have never had a problem with my Ronh Woods CDI either - been using it for over 5 years. I wouldn't think a CDI box could give you a low RPM shake - but I there is a first for everything.

 

im looking to get a cdi box for my 02 650. problem is i just dont know which name to go to. can someone give me a reason to lean more towards one? procom dynatek nitro ronwoods? i want a rev limiter and more torque and power in the lower end. i do mainly trail and pit riding. thanks for the help!

 

Everyone suggests to stay away from Procom.

 

Not sure if it's been mentioned but Ron Wood is now selling the Dynatek. It has a rev limiter in it at 9200 according to Elliot. The paper that ships with it says it limits at 8900 so hard to tell which is right but I would believe Elliot usually.

I bought a Procom several years ago and then last year I had Jim Woods do a Stage 3 on it but I didn't replace the Procom. I noticed the engine was still pulling pretty hard when it hit the limit so I bought the RW Dynatek this week. I'll see how it does next month when I go up to Pismo.