Alright guys... the wifes 2007 650 outlander maxx xt is not working. Dropped it off at a well respected/looked up to friends house for him to replace an axle boot for me and change the oil. He went to start it up and called me because it wouldnt start/the gage clustee wasn't coming on. (Basically asking me how i start the thing) . Went over to his house to pick it up and we looked over every fuse, unplugged/replugged every connector i could see on machine. Still nothing. Jumped the bike off a truck still nothing. We took battery off and put it back in to make sure Terminals were getting a solid connection (and they are). With the key off and kill switch in OFF position when we plugged battery back in and a relay up front and what i believe to be fuel connector on side of motor was making a clicking noise while OFF. Turned the key to the ON position and cluster lit up for a few seconds and went off (wont come back on). Tried starting, nothing. Rear taillight powers on.. front headlights are not. What's going on guys? Only has 570miles on this machine. I'm frustrated and dumb felt that i cant figure out whats going on.

Any help appreciated!
Ben

 

that`s a nice looking bike. sure seems to be a lot of can am and Polaris elec. troubles, all the forums are full of them. old Polaris tech can probably help w/ this !

 

Yep, darn, thats a sharp ATV....for sure. I would help but I just don't know much about Can-Am. About the fuses and fuse holders...were they clean and dirt free? I might recommend that you remove each fuse, one at a time, clean the fuse holder and fuse ( did you check the fuses with a meter ), slightly bend the fuse blades to help ensure good connection, and check the fuse holders to ensure that the "female" portion on the fuse holder has not been "pushed" away from the holder. Also apply dielectric grease to each fuse while your in there. Since the panel "lit" up once, it kind of seems that its a connection issue. I hope this helps you in some way.

 

How about starting at the source,the battery. Even though it's only a few months old/low mileage I've seen plenty of new batteries have an open cell and couldn't hold a charge.Some I've even had bad straight out of the box. That's where load testing the battery comes in first. Plus jumping off with a car or truck battery can cause all sorts of problems on newer sensitive electronics.May or may not be the problem,but a good place to start. Here's a good explanation on this from Battery Stuff.
"A healthy 12 volt motorcycle battery should maintain a range from 9.5 - 10.5 volts under the load for a good 30 seconds straight. If the battery begins to hold and then steadily drops in voltage, there is a problem. If the voltage instantly drops to 0 volts, that is also a problem. We call this the open cell. On a new battery, this can be a result of manufacturing flaws, but it also may be caused by sulfate crystal buildup. Under the intense heat of the load, one or more of the weld pieces connecting the cells is coming loose and separating. This will cut the current, and voltage will drop. When the battery cools off, the pieces will touch, barely giving a complete connection. This gives you a false voltage reading. Batteries with open cells may read fully charged in idle, but they fail under a load test every time. Once a battery reaches this point, there is no going back. The best thing to do is recycle the thing."