Roostingonyou.......There is one other possible thing to check.Take your diaphram out of your carb and check for any holes!!! Im telling you becuse this happen to me and it will affect your top end.There is a inlet were you clear hose comes into your carb. It will have flashing from when they cast the carb case.The diaphram (WILL) rub on this inlet and after time make a hole !!!!!FIX ...grind the area smooth and new diaphram. Ill bet you money that if you take your diaphram and look at it you will see a circular pattern on yor diaphram, and you will see what im talking about.

 

hey roostin it dosen't sound like anything major just tune your bike to it's peak and try agian when you have two bikes that run that close than on any given day you could be the winner or the loser and on bike that close in specs i agree with knutz it could be air restriction the slightest amount[and so far we don't agree on much]but a taperd spring will solve it for sure and you can remove your seat and rev her hard then watch your tube you'll know for sure and yes trust me ive lost races due to air presure in my tires or having my shocks set too light.[or those were the excuses i gave anyway]good luck.have a nice day

 

Is it possible to get a bad CDI box? The main factor that was changed was going from the stock to the Ron Wood box. I feel that this may be the problem and maybe the box could be bad?????[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]

 

oh yeah he was only beating me when I had a fouled plug, not one time after I changed them!

 

rooster and hurycne- i don't know which quad belongs to who-but one of the 2 sounds like it is hitting a rev limiter on top when i was starting you 2 weeks ago.But i read that niether have a rev limiter. I think you are to rich on top. Just my 5 cents worth.

 

WOW you may have a point my buddy larry just installed a ron woods cdi
and is experiencing similar problems.you might contact them and see what they say.because if 14mins is right then thats excactly what larry's sound like.

 

What did Wood say about the box to your friend Larry?

 

One guy called today, and said his would run, then quit. After letting it cool off, it would start and run, only to do the same when it got warmed up. I told him to switch back to his stock box and see if it ran any better. If it did, the box is probably bad, and to send it back.
I had a problem on the oval track, running WFO for long periods, where the engine would stop, and then seemed to catch up again. What I found was that the vent for the fuel tank wasn't letting in air as fast as the fuel was getting out, so the carb would starve. What I had to do, at first, was reach down and open the gas cap (in fourth gear) and let the air in. When I found that, we burned a hole in the cap with a butane torch and a screwdriver. After that, no more problem. I understand that the pretty billett caps all have vents in them. Good thing.
For plug reading, especially with a liquid cooled four stroke, the plugs should be almost white with a bit of gray at the base of the plug's insulator, with a gray to light gray color in the exhaust pipe. Modern fuels make it almost inpossible to read a plug for jetting. The really good tuners are now looking at the underside of the piston to check for color. That's where the light brown has gone...

 

Hey roostin, I would change the plugs. If you were running a 210 main with the mods you listed you were way to rich and could of fuel fouled one of the plugs. Plugs are cheap! Also i would change to carb mounted filter, made a noticeable difference in mine! Hope that helps!

 

Make sure you check that diaphram Sand45 was talking about. My buddy's DS did the same thing till we smoothed out that casting. It would only pull about 80% of normal when it wore through. I see there's more than just this one case of this!

Good luck!