piston and cams question?
#22
#23
Yes, I was referring to buying used parts. I don't want to recomend it for fear that someone will install a used piston in bad shape, or in a bore that is too loose or tight, and when it fails try to blaim Knutz Concepts. I can just hear it-"well knutz said it was OK, so I just hammered it in" or "I thought that 1/8" gap was a little large, but the guy at Knutz Concepts said it was OK". LOL
I've seen it done succesfully, many times[pistons re-used in different motors], but I just want to protect myself.
I'll try to get to you e-mail this evening Bat. It was great meeting you, and thank your wife again for letting me try out the Raptor. Yes, Knutz was on a Raptor. No, I wouldn't let anyone take a picture. LOL Don't tell anyone, but I've built a couple of Raptor motors too. Some 686's for a fellow shop owner.
I've seen it done succesfully, many times[pistons re-used in different motors], but I just want to protect myself.
I'll try to get to you e-mail this evening Bat. It was great meeting you, and thank your wife again for letting me try out the Raptor. Yes, Knutz was on a Raptor. No, I wouldn't let anyone take a picture. LOL Don't tell anyone, but I've built a couple of Raptor motors too. Some 686's for a fellow shop owner.
#24
#25
#26
Knutz, what about this one,,,
Since I mentioned it, I've been thinking about it.
.... A relatively easy upgrade, without removing head or block, sort of a Pami stage I+, do it yourself in a few hours....Can you swap valve springs without pulling the head?
.. CDI,
.. Cams,,, which ones?
.. valve springs,
.. clutch springs,
.. Mikuni 42mm, this is the easy carb right? Accelerator pump? Thumb or twist? No loss of low end power. right?
.. pipe, full system, slip-on or modded end cap
.. air filter (K&N with Knutz airbox connection and/or no lid, or clamp on)
I'm not looking for that much more power, but sometimes throttle response is less than what I want. I also want to run pump gas, and if I don't have to pull the head and block to change a piston too, that sounds good to me. Whadda ya think?
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#28
Hurycne, Normally the valve retainers cannot be removed because when the spring is depressed, in attempt to remove the retainers, the valve just opens instead. There is a air fitting adapter that you can buy that screwes into the spark plug hole and allows compressed air to fill the cylinder at, say, 110 psi which holds the valves closed while the springs are depressed. At this time the retainers can be removed and springs replaced. The only other tool necessary is a spring depressor that,when used as a lever and fulcrum, will easly push the valve spring down and allow access to the retainers. There are many different valve spring tools such as this on the market but usually they are for a specific engine and wont work on your engine. In this case a tool will have to be fabricated to work with your head. If you're no strainger to steel fabrication, the tool is easy to make.
#29
#30
All and all, I think it would be much easier to just remove the head to replace valve springs. Due to the design of the head, most valve spring compessors will not work in the first place, and to attempt it while still in the bike and on the motor would be a battle in futility. Keep in mind that the motor does not have to be removed to remove the head, it only needs to be tilted forward. I think the $50[or less] for a new head and base gasket would be well worth the saved frustration.