Hightower is right about the toe in adjustmen.

Don't spend the money on the A-arms until you fully play with the toe adjustment. (Spend the money on a pipe, CDI, etc.) [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

Make sure you get some blue loctight to put on the threads. I adjusted mine and the next trip to Sand Mt. noticed my front end was bouncing bad going up the dune. Got back to camp and that thread was almost all the way out. That would have hurt[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

Timmy Boy Upper A-arms fix everything. Set your caster to 8 or 9 degrees. That and some better front shocks turn the DS into the biggest pussycat on the block. All that other stuff helps, and should be done anyway, toe-out, set your sag etc, but the upper A-arms is what it is all about. All this other stuff will affect the steering geometry a little bit, and help, but the a-arms are made to CORRECT the problem, no matter what else you do. I would not have kept this quad if I hadn't found these upper A-arms. I think I paid $379 from Greydon. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

How do you set the caster to 8-9 degrees? I've never done that before so some instructions would be greatly appreciated. WHat should i expect to pay for the Timmy boys upper A arms? I've seen about $375.00, sound right.

 

The Heim joints where the upper A-arms attach to the frame are adjustable.
In order to get 8-9 degrees, screw the rear Heims almost all the way in, leaving one or two threads visible, screw the front Heims out about 6 threads. This will position the top of the front hubs back, increasing caster. If you line up the angle of the hubs, from top joint to bottom joint with the shocks, that is about right. I used a level and a protractor, very primitive, but it works. Lining up with the shock works pretty well. After you have adjusted the caster, then adjust camber at the ball joint at the hub on the upper A-arm, to about 1 degree, just barely in at the top. You can sight from front to back using the rear tire as your gauge. Then toe-out, 1/8" with rider aboard. It's not that hard. A nice flat piece of concrete helps.

 

what year and make mustang do you have and how much you want for it? do you have any pics? i might be interested.private message me.

 

My 2000 doesnt do anything like that! Maybe you have a bent wheel?

 

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