Wanna Ride, just change the oil, by the process desribe i believe 2 posts earlier and forget that the bleeder screw is there. It serves no purpose on the 01 and 02 models. Have alot of towels ready.

 

I have an '01 and have cracked the bleed screw every oil change. I then turn the key to the "on" position and the red kill switch in the "off" position, now press the start button to turn the engine over, no need to remove a spark plug. I usually do this until I see clean oil, makes a mess but, I would rather get all the old stuff out.

I have never had the engine lose it's prime so this probably explains what Sand45 is saying that it is not needed on this model.

As far as getting the bleed screw loose, I too destroyed a Craftsman screwdriver then, found I had a larger screwdriver that fit better. I put a cresent wrench on the handle and turned with the wrench while pushing in on the screwdriver handle. Finally, it broke loose. I have never tightened it that tight again.

I still use a small pump to remove the oil through the dip-stick hole. I have one of those drill driven pumps and some clear vinyl tubing that I feed down the dipstick hole. The pump cannot get all the oil out of the tank so, after I pump everything out, I pull the plug at the bottom of the tank. Usually, enough to fill about 3/4 of a butter tub. I can then dump that oil easily into my drain bucket. Biggest mess is when I bleed oil out of the filter area.

 

I bought mine used with LESS then 10 hrs on it. I am going to do its first change, what is the correct oil? I heard you cant use synthectic but like normal cycle oil 10-40? Correct??

 

I use Castrol.

Manual says: .8 US Gallons (3L) SAE 10W40, 4 stroke mineral based oil SH or SJ. Do not use synthetic or synthetic blend oil.

I know there are quite a few that use synthetic oil but, I am just telling you what the manual says.

 

Why am I the only one on this post concerned about the filter that doesn't fit in jiminok's bike? Why would you want to jerry-rig one of the most important $8 components in a $5,000 engine? I'd rather throw away the factory disposable, than risk one granual of contamination not getting rinsed off of reusable elements.

 

Good point Hightower. For those of you who have the 2000 this is what I do. Get an impact driver. You hit the end with a hammer and the tip is forced into to slot at the same time it automatically turns. It can be used with several tips for all types of fasteners. Got mine at the local auto store, about 18 bucks...use it all the time.

 

Very good point Hightower, go to www.rockymountainatv.com and order yourself a few K and N Oil filters that actually fit, for 7 bucks a shot.

 

100 percent behind you on the wrong filter size make it work thing. I have one of the first 99 build date machines, I bleed the system every time (and always will) but I did go to the 2001 half year filter and housing (more filter area more better) I also run straight 40 non synthetic but I say do what feels good or works for you

 

DocDom, Yep I couldn't make it without my impact driver! Saved my butt and many screws! A worthwhile investment for anyone!

 

Alright, alright, already...cheese an rice...look, I know we all come here for good discussion, and I also understand that many of you, including myself, have a certain amount of pride when it comes to offering good, solid, reasonable, works everytime--not, "well, it worked for me..." advice. Not that I feel like I've fallen from some pedestal or something...but what I did worked for me in a pinch...THE FILTER WAS PERFECT IN ALL RESPECTS EXCEPT LENGTH, SO I USED A WEEDEATER SPRING TO MAKE UP THE DIFFERENCE...DO NOT try this your self--not only will everyone look at you, they might not ride with you for a very long time, and they certainly will never ask you to help them with their quad, and IT MAY CAUSE SEVER DAMAGE TO THE INTERNAL WORKING OF YOUR QUAD.

Damn, I felt like I got caught doing somethin bad....what's my age?

Charlie Brown