Since I was home last and changed my oil (first since 10hr service) I've been troubled by what I encountered...first of all that is one messy job. Especially when pulling the plug on the oil reservoir. Anyway, when I tried to open the brass bleeder in the filter area, it wouldn't budge! I looked at it closely to see signs of being torqued when I had the 10hr done by the dealer. No marring or anything...I used the biggest screwdriver I had and still couldn't get it to loosen...I messed up the slot, errrrr! dang-it! Next chance I get I will be making a visit to the dealer to question them on this issue. The manual says to torque it to 18ftlbs. I left the kill switch off, pulled a plug, and turned the motor over after replacing the oil and plugs and oil came into the oil filter area. So, I installed my new stainless filter which fit in every respect except for length which I made up the difference using a weedeater spring (which I realize is bad advice to anyone looking for tips that work everytime--but instead of deleting what's been said...I'll just say...er, uh, WTF). My question is has anyone else had similar problems with the bleeder screw? What can I do now that this one is basically messed up--how can I get it out without totally destroying the slot...should I grind my screwdriver tip down to fit the slot better? I dont understand why it was so tight...help! I just don't get much time at home and was hoping someone could provide me some solace with this issue until I can get back and work this out...thanks.

 

Jim, First off thanks for the reply on the kill switch it really helped me. Now about your screw. Mine was the same way and I never did get it loosened, I just turned the motor over and everything went fine. Now about the messy job, I was rather ticked after my first oil change because of the messiness, so I vowed for it never to happen again. My solution was to go to a local hardware or plumbing store and buy a 3 foot or so, clear and flexible pipe of some kind. Then loosen the nut up, as far as possible without it coming out, then put the hose on it and run it into a container which you can fill with oil, next squeeze the bolt and twist it all the way out, but hold onto it and just let the oil run right through the hose. Hope this helps, J.D.

 

Yep, I had the same problem. Almost tore the head of the screw all up. I got the biggest screwdriver I could find, and held the end of the screwdriver with channel lock pliers, and turned it. But, still no luck! Turns out, it didn't need bleeding, but next time the quad goes to the dealers, it's getting a new bleed screw, and I'll ask them to loosen it!

 

The bleader screw is a tough one alright but you'll find that all the fastners on the DS are very tight, I took a square shank #3 flattip and had to grind it down some (your trying to eliminate side to side turning, this helps keep it from climbing and increses contact area) then while putting heavy pressure pushing the driver use a cresent to turn it, I use this driver whenever I use the bleader to prevent damage, I think my first oil change I didn't need to bleed it either, that changed, now I blead it every time
also hold the wrench close to the motor

 

That bleeder screw is always tight and I never put a lot of pressure when I tighten it up. I changed oil today at the house and have never had a problem loosening the bleeder with my good tools but I figured my big craftsman screwdriver would work (it broke) so I ground a chisel to fit perfectly in the groove. I think this will be a permanent addition to my tools.

 

I also ground down a chisel. You can torque on it with a wrench or a socket. It's a permanent fixture in my DS tool kit since my buddy rolled his quad and we had to bleed his out in the dunes to get oil pressure.
2001 on up DS's have a vent in the oil supply line to keep from getting an air pocket, Like when you roll it or change the oil. I guess it works, no one posts this problem.

 

you dont need to unscrew the bleeder if you have a 2001 model!!! Also just pull the oil line off the motor not the oil tank ...BOY oh BOY!! i bet you made one he11 of a mess doing it that way![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]

 

Thank you, EVERYONE, for your responses...

Sand45, I must've turned 3 shades of red when I read your reply...smacked myself in the forehead and said, "duh"! But, could you please explain why I don't have to bleed the air on my '01...the shop manual says otherwise--I'm not doubting you...just would like to know what you know.


again...thanks for your replies.

Jim

ps--I just reread Mystried's post...and figured out what he stated that it must be the vent in the oil supply line that resolves the need to bleed...

 

Ill go thru the hole oil change process. First thing i do is take my oil dip stick off then ill remove the big oil line from my motor and let it drain. Then ill hook it back up and pull the drain plug off and let it drain.Then ill put the drain plug back on and start pulling the pipe heat sheild off my exhaust.Then ill pull the oil filter off and replace with a new one and put filter and housing back on.Then ill add 3 3/4 oil back in the oil tank and fire it up.The red oil light will stay on for a few seconds and then it will go out.Thats it oil change all done ive done it this way on both my baja and 2001 ds since ive bought them and never had any problems. The reason they tell you to unscrew the bleeder is the instruction book has not changed any.In other words the intruction book is the same for all ds modes and it was written for the 2000 models. Also when you pull the oil line off the motor look at the fitting were it gose on you will notice a (T) with a little hose well thats the oil vent tube that lets any air out so it dont get traped in the in your motor. The 2000 models did not have this oil vent line thats why they tell you to unscrew the bleeder so the air will escape. I hope this will help you out [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

Guys,

Whats the deal with the bleed screw in the Oil filter housing? I have a 2002 Baja and Have never had to remove this bleeder, I do realize that mt owners manual states to remove this brass screw but when at my dealer for my first free oil change(negotiated into purchase) I watched the technician when he changed it. All he did was remove a plug, drained the oil, removed the oil filter, then wiped up the motor, then filled the oil reservoir and cranked the motor over with out one plug and cranked until he had fresh oil coming out of the center of the bleeder screw? Am I missing something or has Bombardier made changes to there bleeder screw? I am at a loss because I am about to change my own oil for the first time and I know that this bleeding of the oil system could be a critical factor in the longeveity of my motor?