Well my Titanium-4 will be here Monday and I need to knwo what range of jets and what kind, if I'm not mistaken, they're are the SMALL ROUND. I will be running without the airbox lid and in about 80-90 degree wether with high humidity. Thanks for any help you provide me.

 

Buy the K&N Dynojet kit from Ron Wood racing. It has all the jetting and info you need. The stock carb has the long hex main jets. What altitude are you riding at? Let me know and I can giv you a better idea.

 

A lot of contraversy exists over Dynojet needles vs. Mikuni needles, but if tuned right I have to say that the Dynojet needle is way better for instantaneous throttle response. The difference is emmediately noticable, and I highly recommend it.

Mad - you ride the same conditions I do, and I'm also lidless. If you're lidless with K&N, go 3rd groove from top on Dynojet needle, bottom groove of Mikuni needle.

Main jets you'll need to try will be around 180 mikuni, 0r around 190, 195 Dynojet. Go by Dynojet instructions if you get there kit, but hang towards the richer side of what they say.

Mad and Angry on the same thread - don't get to irate guys!

 

Angry, as far as altitude, I'm not real sure, maybe Hightower can help me out here, since I will be in the ballpark, of what his is.

 

I believe I will be going with the Dynojet needle, because of High said of instantaneous throttle response which is important to me because I race MX.

 

The Dynojet kit is the way to go definetly. Good luck.

 

I love the Dynojet - I even went back to the stock needle and mikuni jets to be certain I was sure, and immediately I hated it, and swapped right back to Dynojet.
The instructions are pretty accurate, but I did find they were a little lean for my set-up. For example, they say to use the 3rd groove if you run a direct mount filter on the carb, but I had to go 3rd groove for the lidless airbox, and I also use the main jet they recommend for a full exhaust system, even though I run a Yoshi slip-on. They give you the altitude adjustments too - go down one jet for every 3000 feet of altitude.

Keep in mind, Dyno jet numbers are not the same as Mikuni jet numbers - use Dyno jets with Dyno needles, and Mikuni jets with Mikuni needles.

 

High, what DYNO main are you running and did you use the instructions for stage 1 or stage 3?

 

My Yoshimura really pulls some air, amazingly so, and I also run lid free, K&N. I used stage 3 instructions due to this, and ended up with 195 main after much experimenting - which is what they recommend for a full exhaust, even though mine is a slip-on. I was still a tad lean on the low end - currently I'm 4th groove from top, 195 main. I still think I may be a little lean, so I'm gonna go 200 main and see. (I haven't had this new pipe long, still tweeking) Before, when I had the RWR full system with 18 disks, I was 3rd groove, 190 main.

I like to tape the filter off and check for bogging. It shouldn't bog with 1/3 filter taped off, but should after taping 2/3. If I can't get it to stumble and bog after taping 2/3 the filter off, then its way too lean. If it'll stumble and bog with only 1/3 taped off, then I'm too rich and will turn a plug black as soon as the filter gets a little dirty. All this takes time, but its worth it. Plug color checks are a little shady, especially as clean as the DS burns with two plugs and higher (92-93) octane. When I say stumble and bog, I'm talking under load - not in neutral.

 

Thanks, I've never heard of the tape method, but I believe I will give it a go when I get my pipe and kit.