popping at midrange
#11
12-04-2002, 07:58 PM
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#13
12-07-2002, 11:41 AM
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popping at midrange
ratts that didnt fix it?!@#$$%% now we have no idea what to try next please help. when you ride it it feels like you are hitting the rev limit but in the mid range, and some times it will run fine for a littel bit and then right back to popping. if its sitting still it will dry rev fine but as soon as u let out the clutch it starts doing it. somthing really odd is we tryed doing a burn out in the dirt by his house and it reved fine then tryed taking off and the popping started again.
please help we are both about bald from all the hair pulling we are doing!!!
chris
please help we are both about bald from all the hair pulling we are doing!!!
chris
#14
12-07-2002, 12:25 PM
#15
12-07-2002, 01:58 PM
popping at midrange
OK so it sounds like we are back to square one,
In your original post your simptoms were different then your latest post. You said that it would clear out if you kept it pegged but now your mentioning that it won't even drive.
If an engine runs good in wide open throttle (driving) but spits and sputters in other throttle positions then the electrical system can be ruled out, as it takes more KV to run an engine at full throttle then it does at less then... In your post today it sounds as though it won't even drive at all
Is this true???
If so you could have something wrong with your electrical system, ie; Plugs, plug caps, coils, CDI, charging system, Battery, or wiring connections.
Considering that there are two coils, caps, plug wires, and plugs I think its safe to rule them out. Its highly unlikely that both would fail at the same time.
That leaves us with the CDI, the triggering unit in the flywheel, the battery/charging system and the wiring.
You stated that you adjusted the valves. In doing so you have to remove a few different items in order to remove the valve cover. Check the wires going to the coils (all) for a good connection. Make sure the ground wires are tight and making good contact to the steel of the frame.
If that didnt fix it the next step is to look at the most common failures on other DSs.
The battery has caused similar problems on others even though the charging system works properly. Have your battery checked and also check that the system voltage goes to 14.5 (or so) when the engine is running about mid rpm. Check this at the battery with a volt/ohm meter set at D/C volts around 20 volt scale.
If your battery and charging system are good then we're down to the CDI and triggering unit. At this point it would be advisable to borrow a CDI from somebody to try on yours or you can purchase a aftermarket unit without a rev limiter and start your (go faster) mods now.
The triggering unit can be checked with an ohm meter without removing the flywheel cover. Follow the wires that come out of the engine to a plug, this is where you check it but I don't have the specs or the wire colors. If you ask, there are guys on here that have the shop manual and can provide that info.
That about covers your electrical system.
The only other possability after your carb or electrical system is your cam timing or valve adjustment. I know you just did that but face the facts, it started running this way AFTER you adjusted your valves. I wouldn't rule it out.
If you have the parts and info the electrical system diagnosis should only take a couple hours
Good luck
In your original post your simptoms were different then your latest post. You said that it would clear out if you kept it pegged but now your mentioning that it won't even drive.
If an engine runs good in wide open throttle (driving) but spits and sputters in other throttle positions then the electrical system can be ruled out, as it takes more KV to run an engine at full throttle then it does at less then... In your post today it sounds as though it won't even drive at all
Is this true???
If so you could have something wrong with your electrical system, ie; Plugs, plug caps, coils, CDI, charging system, Battery, or wiring connections.
Considering that there are two coils, caps, plug wires, and plugs I think its safe to rule them out. Its highly unlikely that both would fail at the same time.
That leaves us with the CDI, the triggering unit in the flywheel, the battery/charging system and the wiring.
You stated that you adjusted the valves. In doing so you have to remove a few different items in order to remove the valve cover. Check the wires going to the coils (all) for a good connection. Make sure the ground wires are tight and making good contact to the steel of the frame.
If that didnt fix it the next step is to look at the most common failures on other DSs.
The battery has caused similar problems on others even though the charging system works properly. Have your battery checked and also check that the system voltage goes to 14.5 (or so) when the engine is running about mid rpm. Check this at the battery with a volt/ohm meter set at D/C volts around 20 volt scale.
If your battery and charging system are good then we're down to the CDI and triggering unit. At this point it would be advisable to borrow a CDI from somebody to try on yours or you can purchase a aftermarket unit without a rev limiter and start your (go faster) mods now.
The triggering unit can be checked with an ohm meter without removing the flywheel cover. Follow the wires that come out of the engine to a plug, this is where you check it but I don't have the specs or the wire colors. If you ask, there are guys on here that have the shop manual and can provide that info.
That about covers your electrical system.
The only other possability after your carb or electrical system is your cam timing or valve adjustment. I know you just did that but face the facts, it started running this way AFTER you adjusted your valves. I wouldn't rule it out.
If you have the parts and info the electrical system diagnosis should only take a couple hours
Good luck
#16
12-07-2002, 02:08 PM
popping at midrange
Well for me atleast it clears only for a couple of seconds and then starts again' but alot worse. now i think it could be the valves, cos i never ajasted mine. and if cb200warrior's friend did his wrong, then it could be it. although mine can run in low and low midrange jast fine with no problem.
#17
12-07-2002, 02:45 PM
popping at midrange
Diagnosis in a written forum is very dificult because you only have the information that person feel is important or that they notice at the time they work on it. Some important info is forgotten from the time they work on it to the time they post here. Generally speaking, a person has to have in-depth knowledge into his machine in order to give the exact details that need to be known in order for another to properly diagnose it. If that person has that in-depth knowledge then he can usually diagnose it himself without the help of others.
I do this kind of thing for a living dealing with electrical and hydraulic systems however I do it over the phone where I can ask the important questions and make informed decisions based on the answers I get. Obviously this is somewhat easier then a written forum.
My reward for doing this is the sattisfaction of knowing that I helped him go riding. At work I have the same sattisfaction but I get paid for as well [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
I do this kind of thing for a living dealing with electrical and hydraulic systems however I do it over the phone where I can ask the important questions and make informed decisions based on the answers I get. Obviously this is somewhat easier then a written forum.
My reward for doing this is the sattisfaction of knowing that I helped him go riding. At work I have the same sattisfaction but I get paid for as well [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#20
12-08-2002, 08:24 PM
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popping at midrange
well we have already recheacked the valves to rule that out, the wireing was next on our hit list. am sorry if my posts are hard to read i am tot a very good typer. its only some times that it will clear up, i thought i said that but after i reread it i didnt. and its only once and a while it will clear up, somethimes it will others not. it doesnt mater if the motor is warm or cold. i didnt even think that when we adjusted the valves we may have un puged some thing or that its only kind of making a connection.
JSsDS what do you do for a living i work as a Maintenance Technician for a food prossing plant and you sound like the the guys i have to call when every one in the shop has no clue and then it ends up being something simple like a lose screew. you would think because i do this kind of thing for a living i could figure this thing out but my buddy dosent want to buy a tech manual and its like me at work looking in to a machine with no electral digram it just takes a lot longer to figure out how it works when its good letalone when its broke.
any way we are going to go through every conection and see what that dose for us
thanks for the help JSsDS, and i dito the 10!!!
chris
JSsDS what do you do for a living i work as a Maintenance Technician for a food prossing plant and you sound like the the guys i have to call when every one in the shop has no clue and then it ends up being something simple like a lose screew. you would think because i do this kind of thing for a living i could figure this thing out but my buddy dosent want to buy a tech manual and its like me at work looking in to a machine with no electral digram it just takes a lot longer to figure out how it works when its good letalone when its broke.
any way we are going to go through every conection and see what that dose for us
thanks for the help JSsDS, and i dito the 10!!!
chris