I noticed that while rolling the DS out of the garage it was more difficult then normal. I also heard a funny sound. I put it on the stands and the tires were hard to roll and it made a grinding sound. I loosend the rear tightener nuts and the sound went away and it was easy to free spin them. I tighten just the right side and the problem is back.. Did I bend my axle? are the barings shot? ? I shot some lube at it and nutting.. I also took off the brakes to make sure it was not the rotor or pads hitting. Help.. I have a feeling this is going to cost me some big $$

 

Ok, I pulled the axle nutt and slid the rotor over so the axle would slide to the right a few inches, there is tons of grease in there.. HOW DO I KNOW if the barrings are shot? Help me here guys I am not mechanicly inclined here...

 

well that's going to be hard to tell unless you take the axle and bearing all the way out. once you got them out you can clean then in a solvent to get all the grease off!! then wash them off with warm water.. Then blow them off with a air hose or some of that (can air). then what you do is LIGHTLY grease them. and roll them with your hand if it feels gritty or rough or looks rough like pits in the metal some where you got water in them and it rusted. what color was the old grease was it grey then that mean there is water in the grease. is the grease caked on that means that the grease has dried out that not good either. do you have a manual?? because when you put it all back to gether you need to use a good grease and the nut needs to be torqued down to the right pressure on the bearings and then backed off to set the bearings. I hope this helps its hard to explain but I'll try

 

when i thought my bearings were shot, i just tried to move them both with my index finger. lol. one moved slightly, and the other one wouldnt even budge.

 

THe grease was jet black. I will try moving it with my finger.. The texture of the grease seemd normal, not cakey, sandy.. I will pull them out.. NO I do not have a manual. What nut needs to be torked? the axle nut next to the rotor? I heard just make it tight..

 

turn adjusting nut counterclockwise (towards the front of atv) and hand tighten only dont over tighten useing a tool can cause the tapered bearings to overheat. make sure axle spin free and no free play then tighten lock screw89 inch pounds torqued I toke this from the manuel ok got questions??

 

What nut do I NOT over tighten?? the 2 on the rear swing arm? Axle lock nut on the rotor? Nut on the Axle lock nut?

I dont have a torque wrench.. I think I need to invest in some.. I put it all back together making it all snug. I put in the lock nut tight and the bolt on it. I then tightened the rest after setting the chain. I rode it and it seemed fine?? The noise is gone,, does not mean I did it correctly but the noise is gone

 

the nut on the axle that has a lock screw in it is the one to tighten hand tight. The other bolts and nuts on the swing arm that you tighten after you adjust the chain should be torqued to 21 foot pounds.

 

The new procedure is to torque preload the cone bearings to 97 ft/lb initial torque . Loosen the nut , rotate the axle , then set the final torque to 4o ft/lb . this is as per Service bulletin 2001-7 . Bombardier has has a Crow foot ( 2.5in) 63.5 mm for the DS 650 rear axle nut Part # 529 035 729 . Hope this will help..