Razorcat,

You are right about the end cap being $100 - I must have been hallucinating, which is very tough to do since I have never taken anything more than cold medicine. I think as far as the CDI / Kill Switch thing it all comes down to money. The RWR with Kill switch will be cheaper, however the others have the limit and cost more (I'm pretty sure they all perform almost exactly the same.) I think I'll end up going with the RWR / Kill switch combo.

It does literally take five minutes to re-jet once you have your carburetor setup with the allen screws. First you pull the seat, set the gas tank to the off position. Now drain the carburetor using the drain on the bottom. (Don't forget to close the drain.) Next loosen the collars holding the carburetor in place then twist it at an angle towards yourself. Now remove the allen screws; I use a cheap T-handle wrench to loosen the main jet. Then swap out to the next main jet, put it all back together and I'm off riding & testing my new setup.

It is a similar job for the needle, except you work from the top & loosen the two philips head screws then pull out the slide assembly, & go from there. Each operation is only about five minutes which makes keeping the stock DS carburetor jetted a very easy task. Like I said before, the tough part if the first time you take the factory screws off, I did it once on my 2001 and now I've got to do it again on my 2003 & I'm not looking forward to it, but it'll get done this time before I do any modifications.

I’m thinking this time I’ll just drill the head of each of the four screws off being careful & slow making sure not to scar the carburetor itself. I think that will be easier and faster than what I did last time – I used my dremel to make large slots in each screw so I could use a large flat bladed screwdriver on them, and even then it took a ton of force to get them to turn.