Should I wire the kill switch from the coil to ground?

 

It's best to wire it from the "pick-up" to ground.

 

Is that the thin wire that goes to the coil?

 

I just put one on mine this weekend and it is super simple. The kill switch on the handle bars is a normaly open switch, witch means that when you flip it to off it conects the circute and grounds out the coil. all you have to do is splice into the single black wire with the grey tracer that comes out of the handle bar wiring harnes all on its own. splice the other wire off the teather into the only black wire that goes threw the main six wire conector at the end of thehandle bar wiring harnes. All these wires are directly behind the headlight. The hole thing takes abought a half hour if you move as slowly as i do. I just used scotch locks and rapped them real good in black tape.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

The two most common places to wire in a "dead man" switch is at the factory kill switch on the handle bars, or at the coil. While both of these places work, niether one is ideal. You can run into reliability issues as well as trouble shooting problems if something does go wrong.

The best place to tap into is the wires coming from the magnetic pick up on the right side of the wire. If you trace these wires up, you will see that they come to a two wire "weatherpack" connector near the left rear fuel tank mount. Connect to the black wire with the yellow stripe, after this connector. It is easy to get to, and provides the most trouble free link to the "kill" circuit that you can use.

Also, don't use "scotch-locks". Although they are easy to use, by design they actually cut some of the strands of wire. They also leave a sharp edge against the wire, possibly leading to a cut wire after the vibration from the quad wears on it for a year or two. I make a cut in the insulation [parallel to the wire] about 1" long. I then bend the wire at the cut in order to seperate the insulation from the wire. Insert the strands of the wire from the kill switch through the strands of the wire from the harness on the bike. Twist the strands around the harness wire and un-bend the assembly The existing insulation will partially cover the connection, and then you can seal with liquid electical tape or simply wrap in with the standard tape. This leaves you with a perfect connection that will not ever come apart or break, but can be dis-assembled if ever needed.

This is the way I have set up many bikes, and I never wanted any problems. Other ways work, but this is the most reliable way I have ever found. It's just about as quick to wire as any other way as well.

 

you can alos go to radio shack and get a piggyback spade connector - you crimp it on your killswitch wire, plug it into the coil on the left of the bike, then plug the coil wire into the second piggybacked connector. very simple also, reliable with no disturbing of coil wires at all.

I have a tach, the tach wire came with the piggyback spade connector I speak of, and I tapped into this tach signal wire just as Knutz suggested, with the addition of solder at the union. I bolted the ground wire to chassis.