TyreSpinner,

Like Hightower said, work with one circuit at a time. Don't worry about all the symptoms right now, they will just drive you crazy. If you follow Hightower's directions, go through each circiut, tune them individually, and most importantly TEST them individually, done properly, they will all fall together like the instruments in a orchastra to make some beautiful music in the dirt.

-Tom

 

Sandman,
fuel mileage bothers me because last time I went for a long ride, after 2 1/2 to 3 hours of easy riding (1/4 throttle most times). I had to switch to reserve. We drove around 42 miles. 42 on casual easy riding is sure as hell not good. That's why I'm concerned. That's almost worst than a banshee. How far or long can you go on a tank??

Next time I go out with my dad, I'll check his tripmeter and really test the mileage.

 

Also, thanks a lot to everyone that posted to help me. I'd be dishing out some money to mechanics for the same things you guys are teaching me.

Thanks especially to hightower for taking the time to write that long post. I printed it out, and will try everything you said next weekend when I have the time and it stops raining (haven't seen the sun in 10 days or so).

And thanks the most of all to BigDaddy for his effort and generosity in trying to help me.

I'll keep you posted when something happens.

Peace
Jeff

 

Okay, I installed the carb back on. K, it started up fine and all. Was idling a little slow, so i turned the idle speed screw a little and it was fine. I had messed around with the air screw before I took off the carb.

Okay, when I punch the gas (after it warmed up), the engine just like "stops" for a second, and then resumes running. It used to do this from time to time before, but now it seems to do it almost every time I punch the gas. I don't think it's backfiring, but there is some kind of kick right after the pause. To resume, when I floor it off idle, everything goes quiet for about 1/2 second or so....wtf.

I tried fixing the airscrew, I turned it in about 1.5 turns and it started to sputter, then I started turning out but it never sputtered. I turned it out atleast 4-6 turns (screw was about to come off, or it felt like it was) but it never started to die or sound irregular...

Again, I'm running a 40 pilot and 155 main....help...

 

I may be wrong but i know the 45 has a serious stutter after idle its the nature of the beast but shouldent be very noticible if tuned correctly.

 

trust me, this is definetly not normal. My DS sounds sick...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

 

Just got to the topic at hand and your welcome Tyrespinner. Hightower is right. ONLY work one thing at a time. As I told you in your PM, the only reason to tear your carb apart is to see what's in there. Now that you know what is in there, now we can work on your particular problems. I also said that a 45 pilot might be a little better as to fixing your hesitation problem. But, almost no Naturally aspirated carb will work with out a little hesitation when you stab it. Even when racing a naturally asperated vehicle, RPM's are brought up, you hold and then go. What would worry me more is the stalling out or the stumbling when coming off the throttle. I would see what needle I was running and then go from there. Sandman is making a lot of sense with the 150 main and 45 pilot. I like that set up.

As far as milage goes...... 42 miles and reserve would be on the low side, which makes me wonder what the needle is and where it is set at. If the motor seems to flood when off-loading the throttle it could be to rich on the top end. The needle and main will work hand in hand and could be the culprit. Let's find out what that needle is and where it is positioned.

I go for a 2 1/2 hour ride and the ride is exactly 42 miles and we are hauling butt most of the time. 4 and 5th mostly with some good climbs and good WOT's. When I get back, I've usually got about an 1/8 - 1/4 of a tank. And that is with MY Big A$$

Check the needle and we'll continue the discussion.

See Ya!

 

After 35 minutes on the phone with Mike (BigDaddy331). And about 18$ bucks in long distance bills.

We figured out I'm running a 96 needle on the 2nd slot from the top. Mike told me to change the e-clip to the middle slot. (making it even richer) and to get a 150 main.

I called and ordered a 150, so I should get it in a few days.

I also put 2 brand new plugs in. (Old ones were sooty and black as a coal mine).

Went for a little drive around where I live, and the stalling upon release of the throttle seems to be gone...I tried releasing the throttle over 10 times at different speeds (pulling the clutch in too) and it would not stall.

I checked the new plugs after my ride, the white inner part is still white, but the metal part that sticks out on top (unsure of name) has some temperature marks that lead into the threads.

I'll go for a few more rides and i'll keep checking the plugs...

The DS doesn't feel like it has gained any power tho...maybe it has but not enough for me to notice.

I already felt I was burning more fuel than I should...and bringing down the needle clip a slot won't help in that department [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]. Hopefully the 150 main will....

This sound right to you guys??

Thanks
Jeff

 

i never did get mine to work so im getting rid of it.

 

that's sad...mine works...it's just not at it's 100%...maybe 85% right now.

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] don't give up!