i was thinking of geting a k&n air filter and i was wonderin if there was any thing i would need to do further????????????

 

just a filter cleaning and recharge kit to start with.
If you also do a pipe you will need to rejet the carb.

 

K&N Air filters come pre-oiled (or so I've been told.)

If you know the part number for the K&N filter, please let us know, because raceway apparently hasn't been able to determine that from Jetmoto USA. Does this thing have a flat foam filter? A cone? or what? Gonna be the 15th or so before I get mine. ==)

You will need a recharge kit to reoil the filter after you clean it, and I think it comes seperately or in a cleaner/oil combo pack. K&N Oil is the same as most other high quality filter oils, and any is ok to use. Definately better air cleaning than a dry filter with the same level of performance.

Is it the exhaust manifold pipe or the silencer that is the problem? I understood the silencer to already be a high flow, and all the restriction on the exhaust is done via the manifold pipe (aka downpipe.) Is this not true? From video I have seen, I think the exhaust isn't going to do much for this thing without a new ignition system, better plugs, and bigger jets on a streamlined intake.

Also, unless you are going for a higher level of engine protection, an oiled air filter isn't going to do much for you. John@Raceway said the stock filter is very high flow (which made me think it was a dry foam filter.) Oil > dry for engine protection.

-JNY

 

The filter cleaning and recharge kit is available seperatly or together, I would just buy the kit.
The filter does come pre oiled.
I would stick to the kand n brand kit because they are suspossedly able to be harmed by other brands.
I dont know much about jetmoto quads, but most of the other quads do benefit from a higher flow pipe.

 

What I understand about the 07 Jetmoto 250 is it has a 200cc engine that is bored and/or stroked to 229cc (probably both) and
already has a very high flow exhaust and intake from the factory. Don't have it yet, but from the sound I'll bet the exhaust is high flow, and the downpipe is mediocre. I just don't think we are going to get a very very big performance increase from an ignition (if one can be found), an intake, or exhaust work without putting too much stress on the rod and valves. I would suggest that a higher quality (alluminum) piston rod, and perhaps custom titanium valves (with lighter springs and brass valve seats) would get a lot out of it. The springs and seats would be cheap to make, and the valves wouldn't be too bad, but you shouldn't really use titanium valves if you can't change the seats. This is all theory of course. Who knows if the valve seats are even replaceable, but if we could manufacture them, we could really get more RPMs out of the engine. Replacing the piston rod with a lighter (stronger) alluminum would free up a HUGE amount of horsepower (especially since it's 4 stroke) and then perhaps handle the stress of the increased air/fuel (which will raise the maximum presure and probably require a programable ignition system and better spark plug to keep the timing correct. The problem is that once you go past a certain point, there is a lot of catch up to do before you go any further. Lets hope the engine is pretty solid and in 6 months, I'm going to be doing some serious R&D if it's worth it.

A note, e3 spark plugs are going to have a high end plug to replace the d8ea in the next 6-9 months. Until then, the best we could do is bore and tap to 14-16mm. I'm not even sure if 14mm would be possible. Perhaps so considering metric threads tend to be shallow. Then we could look at a 3/4" reach w/ a slightly larger gap with a better ignition system. With an upgraded plug and ignition system (which sort of pulsates and sends a shower of sparks as opposed to one spark), we will see a 5-10% horse power increase. With a better exhaust (if needed), jets (or carb) and a better rod we could conservatively expect another 10-20% increase in horsepower with more low end and higher rpms. Unfortunately, the rpms might go wasted unless the valves can handle it. At this point, it might just be better to wait until the engine has lost it's shiney-new glow and hunt something that will bolt in and have 50% more power. =)

Of course then you may not have to tune very much. (/cry)

-JNY

 

what is there web site???????

 

www.e3sparkplugs.com

-JNY

The response to my email:

 

Hate to beg and plead, but can anyone describe the stock air filter to me? Is it a flat filter, or a cone? What size, or part number is a replacement? It looks like my 250 has shipped from Jetmoto, CA as part of a backorder from Raceway, and I have a week or so to get one here so I can install it during the initial setup. If anyone has any information, It would be greatly appreciated. Even just the dimensions of it, if it's flat, or the OD of the carb intake if it's a cone.

Thanks!!
-JNY