Dingo 150 Oil Drain Plug a pain in the A@#$%
#1
Ok smarter folk then I,
Got my Dingo 150 and am extremely pleased with it. Followed all the recommendations from here to remove the factory oil's. Did the transfer case and then went to do the main engine oil and that fracking cap is like plastic so it stripped. I left it on and used a siphon to drain the oil from the dip stick port. I got a new oil plug from raceway (10 bucks later, but oh well). So during my next oil change after a few hours use I plan on using my trusty bolt/screw remover kit to get the stripped head drain plug out. Anyone else had this issue and if so do you all have recommendations on removing the darn thing. I will know better not to tighten it as hard as they did.
V/R,
Mike B
Got my Dingo 150 and am extremely pleased with it. Followed all the recommendations from here to remove the factory oil's. Did the transfer case and then went to do the main engine oil and that fracking cap is like plastic so it stripped. I left it on and used a siphon to drain the oil from the dip stick port. I got a new oil plug from raceway (10 bucks later, but oh well). So during my next oil change after a few hours use I plan on using my trusty bolt/screw remover kit to get the stripped head drain plug out. Anyone else had this issue and if so do you all have recommendations on removing the darn thing. I will know better not to tighten it as hard as they did.
V/R,
Mike B
#2
i had 2 dingo's for 2 years, they were pretty good atv's, the draw backs with the 150 is not a lota power, i have the DR Road Grader and the 150 was just to small to pull it, also not very good at hill climbs, i gps the top speed on ours, 31mph, on the engine oil drain plug, their's 2, one on the bottom this one has a spring and screen, this ones really not the drain plug but will work if need be, the main drain plug is on the left side of the engine just under the cvt cover towards the front, both of these drain plugs are not plastic, when removing them for the first time use a 6 point socket not a 12 point. 3 places that oil needs to be replaced, engine oil, cvt transmission and reverse gear box oil, i take it that you are refering to the reverse gear box as the transfer case, the cvt transmission fluid also needs to be replace, drain plug in near the bottom of the cvt cover towards the rear and the fill plug is at the rear of the cvt cover almost center. hope this helps.
#3
Bill,
Thanks for the response. I have read many of your previous ones as well. Funny enough, that reported oil drain plug on the left hand side of the block, yea well its not there. Block is solid, there is a circle which would indicate that a hole/plug should be there but it was not drilled or tapped. As for the CVT oil. I can see the drain plug but not the fill plug but need to look again. Also what oil should I use for the CVT? SAE 75-90 like the reverse gear box?? And how do you know its full?
Thanks,
MB
Thanks for the response. I have read many of your previous ones as well. Funny enough, that reported oil drain plug on the left hand side of the block, yea well its not there. Block is solid, there is a circle which would indicate that a hole/plug should be there but it was not drilled or tapped. As for the CVT oil. I can see the drain plug but not the fill plug but need to look again. Also what oil should I use for the CVT? SAE 75-90 like the reverse gear box?? And how do you know its full?
Thanks,
MB
#4
both of mine had the drain plug on the left side, they might have changed the manufactor, who knows? yes cvt uses the same gear oil as the reverse gear box, the fill plug is like a 8mm a little below center, next to a bolt thats holds the cvt cover on, at the very rear of the cvt cover, you need a gear oil pump and pump the gear oil in until it starts to flow back out of the fill hole. should take around 4oz.
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