Thanx

Note to self: remember to get the calipers on the springs and measure both for comparison.

Looking forward to the next post on set up info!!! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

thanks again Mojaveaddict,

im cerainly getting a better understanding thanks to your input, much appreciated,[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I haven't had time to read thru all the responses here, but as soon as I do I'll post some of what I've found... I've been working a lot on my rear suspension & have ended up moving the stock mount --- on another 400EX, we've changed linkages to achieve similar results. From what I've seen most aftermarket 400EX shocks are longer than stock, which compounds the problem the 400EX already has.

Lazarus at GTT has a redesigned rear linkage for a 400EX that works very well with OEM bodied shocks. This corrects the bottomed out frame height the 400 has with 20" XC tires.

I've attempted to do the same thing with an adjustable linkage with poor results. When using an adjustable linkage, the leverage ratio changes to an unacceptable level (which also throws off your extended and bottomed out heights), another problem that I ran into was it moves the progressive portion of the linkage's travel beyond a useable point - both issues soften the rear shock during it's travel.

Sway bars - The problem with the durablue sway bar is it uses an aluminum torsion bar - Not the greatest for the twisting forces the bar takes. It is also very firm.

One thing to keep in mind with sway bars is (considering a neutral setup), the more firm the sway bar, the less traction you'll have on the wheels attached to the swaybar - if your front end has a tendency to push, lighten up the bar --- if you can't fix it, consider getting a different bar. Rath makes a good one that actually makes use of a real torsion rod - but I am unsure of how many applications they offer.

We've used both a Rath bar and a Durablue on the oval track and the quad equipped with the Rath bar definitely has much better traction on the front.

 

Gabe, nice of you to stop in. Hope all is well etc [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

I had looked into the durablow adj link and pretty much was hearing all kinds of things some just like what your saying (maybe some info came from you then too LOL). That was why I decided to give the elka link a shot, well that and the fact Micky D from FST has had some success with it etc.

BTW congrats on the 12hour bclass win [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

thats pretty much exactly what i was looking for, 440EX026... just a basic explanation of how they work. now are there any other major types of shocks, or are those pretty much it? also, whats better about having piggyback rezzies compared to remote, and vice versa, if anything.
thanks a ton, everyone!

 

good to hear I got it right for ya LOL

As far as piggy back v remote there is not any real advantages beyond the obvious of one being moved out of the way and the other not having any lines to get busted etc. I have heard people discuss the less than 1% difference you could see from the added fluid in the line itself but that seemed beyond **** to me.

I like the piggy set up since I didnt have to worry about the lines or where to mount the rez and what could be in the way etc. but I think its all just about personal preference.

There are other shock mfg's out there. Custom Axis, PEP, Motowoz to name a few but you need to decide what you want to spend and then see what quality level and features you can get for the amount avail etc and if you are like many of us then it just finding the extra $$$ beyond what you wanted to spend to get the ones you want [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

I dont like it anymore than the next guy paying for his own stuff but the better products are just more $$$ and remember that in this industry we already started out real expensive on the entry level products so better be ready to spend some real $$$ if you want your quad to handle. I mean why do I have to spend many times what I would for all four shocks on my car to get only one or two for the quad? Are the different sure but its more about what the market will bear.

As far as any sort of recomendation all I can be sure of is that it is better to just make the jump and get all three at once and get the most you can afford. As far as what brand is best etc this is more an opinion than a fact (sorry but you guys better not get on me about this as your favorite brand is no better than the next guys, and I am not budging on this one) and I also dont compare the works steelers to the 1300.00 axis or elka etc but the pro series compares better than most want to accept.

Plus as you can see from this thread there is so much more than the brand of your shocks to be concerned with.

 

yeah, i'm looking into spending no more than 600-800 for all three. seeing as this is my budget and i plan on jumping a lot, i THINK that i want some used zps shocks... good idea, or are there better options available? thanks, again

 

Your options are only limited by your budget. I hate to change my mind to fit my budget but also have been burned by changing my budget to fit my wants [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

In or around the range you gave I see the following options.

A great "deal" on anything used, but just remember most great deals needs a great amount of work etc and you can expect to pay from 125-200 for a rebuild on the fronts (new oil gas seals etc) and can add from 100-300 to that if you need new springs or valving to fit your weight or ride style etc. So a bargain can become a disaster real fast if you dont know or get a bad pair of shocks.

You can have a reputable shop rebuild the rear and valve it better for you etc for around 100-150 and it will work pretty darn good but not as well as the various aftermarket rears. Then you could source a good price on a new pair of non rez fronts in triple rates for around 300-550 (std or limited mass not zps or ssd as these require the same of the rear set up to work correctly)

Then you can look into getting one of the rear rebuilds with the ssd type set up (many of the elka dealers offer this as well as some pep dealers) that should run from 245-500 depending on who does it, and I am not sure but I think that is the only difference besides the price and I know everyone has a different take on that but I am sticking with my comment for now. Then you could go with any of the fronts that match your rear rebuild. So figure from 550+ non rez zps or ssd to 1500 with rez and full adjustment.

One word of advice is that if anyone trys to convince you to pay around 500 for a rear rebuild on the stocker run real fast as its allmost as much as the aftermarket rear and not nearly as good of a performer.

Thats about all I can think of now but its not an easy decision even with just these few choices and I would suggest to find a way to take a short ride on two or three different versions of them to better understand what the differences may be.

 

thanks, is there no way to rebuild the rear to be zps, or would i just have to buy a zps shock, whereas if i get ssd i dont have to worry about finding another shock... i can just rebuild it

(???????)

 

this question is going to seem kind of stupid, but here it goes. i have stock suspension on a 400ex. is there any way that i could get the stock shocks to perform better? I also have a problem with bottoming the shocks when i jump. any suggestions? i can't afford new shocks yet.