Sorry if I was a little confusing about the rear tire because I was trying to point out that their size (OD) will still raise the ride height in the rear which will effect how the suspension reacts both front and rear. This will be true with the too tall and stiff set up you have now and later when you correct it. It may not have a negative effect as its all about the relationship between the front and rear heights, but it will change how it rides etc.

For now try and see if you can losen the chain any so that you take some of the pressure off the roller.

I dont know any places in your area that rebuild shocks but with the amount of racers around that state I am sure there around, so check around with the local shops etc and on the net and see who you can find that your comfortable with.

I know what your talking about with the $$ situation and many of us are of similar thinking, but what happens often is that you meet someone with a full aftermarket set up on a ride or at a mx park etc and you get an offer to try their quad for short run etc, and next thing you know your shopping for over 2k in suspension parts because it was that good. Oh wait that was my story [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] but it happens often enough that the couple hundred we put into the oem stock shock was nothing in comparison.

So to at least try and keep things more affordable look into the rear rebuild, if its too much $$$ think about the works rear, and then once you get it installed check out all or at least the better parts of this thread to see how to try and set up both the front and rear so that you can get it as "sweet" as you can and also know if you may have some issues with the fronts that could be helped with different springs or valving, and even if you end up spending a few more $$$ on the fronts it will still be a whole lot less than the aftermarket stuff.

I know a lot of this stuff posted here is a little involved and some maybe even confusing, but there is a wealth of info hidden in there that can help even the newest rider with stock suspension and also be a pain reliever for the more experienced rider with aftermarket suspension that just wasnt really 100% from the factory.

That last part about the factory settings from the shock mfg is where a lot of time and testing are involved since the investment was made and were still looking for more, and I also guess there is a point where time comes into play because I know at least in my case things are now so close to being really 100% that I am working with what I have till I really have the time to seriously measure everything so that its possible to actually send them to be resprung or valved for the slightest change, but now advising the shop exactly what to do since all the work was done figuring it out etc.

 

Ok... I talked to a guy from TCS and they could do a conversion on my rear shock for 325. Anyways would that be just as good as a new works rear shock. Im gonna stick with my stock shock and forget the raptor shock. He was telling me that the raptor and warrior rear were no different except that the raptor had an adjustable rez or something like that. So ill get the stock one redone. Oh and with my extended a-arms coming will the front shocks mout out further on the bottom as in will it lower the front

 

$325 isnt bad for a full rebuild, revalve, respring and a zps conversion, but I do remember when they were only $225 just a couple years ago, but also have seen them just under $500 too.

The reasons for the conversion is to address the ride height and bias issues I mentioned earlier, and in the long run would be better than just a normal rebuild.

The only thing that is confusing me is that if your going to keep the yfz fronts you wont have a zps set up there so why would you need one in the rear? This brings up a whole bunch of things from comparing the normal rebuild (and keeping around $200) and also if its worth it to just buck up the exra $$ for the works.

You would need to talk with the a-arm mfg on what if any changes there may be in the mounting locations, and you may need to make changes to the front shocks due to the increased ratios and forces that you will see from the aftermarket a-arms.

It doesnt need to have a wider shock mounting point to change things so be carefull and look into either changing the front shocks or having them redone for the new a-arms since you may end up having to do just that.

 

OK... So... I can get a works rear shock for about 500 with rez and for the rebuild it was like 325 but thats not including paying for shipping and handling there and back. Is it better to get brand new works or would you suggest TCS conversion. Ok so with the front shocks.. like you were sayin... Im still learnin on suspension so... If I get a rebuild on my fronts should I get the yfz shocks or the stock warriors the conversion(id think yfz). Or there is works a-t steelers without rez for like 322 bucks so If I went brand new all around it would be probably 850. So its pointless to get a conversion on the back without doing the front(is what your sayin). What if I got the a-t steelers for the front and got the TCS conversion in the back or got the works rear shock and got the yfz shocks redone. Or get them all redone. I dont wanna sound like Im a cheap skate. If you had the money and didnt want to be stupid with it what would you do. Pretending you had the yfz front shock and stock rear. Id kinda like to stay with works If I went new

 

alright 440ex026, this is what i waiting for on this site, cause i am having a hard time finding what type of shock company i should use and how i should set them up....im 200 pounds and am 5 8. I am going to be riding in a varitey of places, race tracks, Sand, and rocky terrain? Thanks for your time............................Oh foregot to mention i have a YFZ450 sorry

 

First thing to remember is that the stock warrior fronts are not rebuildable.

I would personally only consider the conversion if I was going to get that same brand in the fronts, and even then like I did with mine I would consider or go with the aftermarket rear to match.

Dont forget that to save $$$ you can still run the front yfz shocks you have already, and just rebuild the rear for around $90-140 apprpx. I know when I did that to my shock on the ex before getting the elka the price in NJ where everything is more $$$ was only like $115 and it was valved better for my weight too, but we reused the old springs and it didnt need anything special etc.

If you want to step it up a notch then consider the std rear rebuild plus the works steelers, and this will save you some $$$ plus get you a front shock that were set up for your machine, weight, and riding style etc.

The most expensive but best overall decision could be to go with full aftermarket, and it could be anything from works which should put you someware around 850-1100 total or for the Axis Elka or pep etc approx 1450-1900.

Another thing to keep in mind is that we are discussing all of this for a warrior, and the design of this model has some limitations on how well it can perform compared to some of the other newer models etc. Basically there is only so much you can do with the suspension without getting to the point of throwing $$$ away. Consider that if you did the same mods on a yfz,450r or even a z400 etc you would see better overall results in ride quality and performance due to the design of the machine.

So basically what I am saying is that if you are seriously thinking of doing more than just the steelers in the front, and the basic rebuild in the rear you may want to consider possibly moving into another model where you could get more bang for your buck etc. Sure you could add the works rear and the warrior will respond well (the couple I have rode with aftermarket shocks were seriously much better then how mine was with the stock fronts and rebuild rear) but I would think about limiting to that and the steelers as a ceiling.

I know its no fun seeing how the newer stuff "out does" what you have, but think about my situation where I already have a ton of $$$ into this thing.

 

I am not being funny or a wise **** but you need to figure how much you want to spend, and then start looking at the very many options avail to you.

The yfz isnt all that bad stock but theres a whole lot of room for improvement, but the bigger the gain the bigger the pain (price).

Also what if any issues or problems do you have with your suspension now?

 

When i go off large jumps it almost completely bottom out..........and i want an even smother ride anyway, willing to pay anything

 

whats the "clocks out at 115 in your sig" hope thats not the yfz your talking about?

 

Well then you saying that the only problem you feel is the bottoming, or almost bottoming?

If you dont have any issues with how the suspension reacts to smaller bumps and ruts, and there isnt any issue with feedback thru the bars goind over braking or stutter bumps and similar stuff then either you have gotten lucky and have a stock set up that is very close to ideal for you or you are not familiar with the difference etc. Not poking at you etc but I know untill I rode a properly set up atv all I knew was that they were a lot harsher riding than any two wheeler I ever rode and had no idea how much better it could be.

Than again if your either bottoming or almost bottoming on the larger jumps your set up may be better than most since thats really what you want (to bottom over the largest jump you will see that day or race because that will allow more of the balance of the shock travel to soak up the smaller stuff and be more plush over all).

From what your saying so far I would look into either having someone who has more suspension experience help you set it up as is, or start looking at the higher end stuff (axis, elka pep etc) and consider the set ups with the longer shocks and travel. Reason being you seem to have a decent start and would want a better chance at seeing larger results etc.

Hope that made sense cause it was starting wonder a little.