I noticed today when in AWD and switching from forward to reverse that many times the handlebars would turn sharply to the left - like the right front wheel hub wasn't engaging. I could go forwards again without anything being abnormal. If I turned the AWD off and went forwards and then into reverse again no problem.

Does this sound like a normal situation or a problem with the hub not locking? I've only had it for about a month and this is the first time I've noticed it doing this but today is also the coldest day I've operated it so far. I don't want to make a big deal of it if it is normal for it to do this at times but if it's a problem I need to deal with it before plowing season begins! Any thoughts would be appreciated!

 

It's normal, at least all the Sportsmans I have had are this way. It's because of the true four wheel drive, on high traction surfaces(not mud or ice) the drivetrain binds up because of no differential in the front. You get used to it after a while and it's not a big drawback. Having the true AWD will be more benifical plowing than the pull when in reverse IMO.

 

Thanks for the feedback. I knew from 4X4 trucks in the past that you sometimes had to go in the opposite direction to get the hubs to unlock but this was the first time I experienced this and it was on a hard pack dirt surface so what you're saying makes sense. So do you suggest just changing direction as needed to get everything working normally?

 

I will usually dis-engauge the AWD and spin the tires a little or change direction. The most problems I have with it is on dry tight switch backs with it locked in. On slippery surfaces it doesn't really happen.

 

I'm curious - in the owner's manual it indicated that in the AWD mode it's "on demand". My understanding is that it should only kick in when there is a loss of traction by one of the rear wheels - is that true? It just seemed weird today when I switched into reverse with AWN engaged and had it consistently crank the handle bars hard to the left like the one wheel wasn't engaged.

Thanks again for the feedback! I love these bulletin boards so I can pick the brains of people who know a lot more about areas of expertise that I lack! I appreciate it!

Damon

 

Each front wheel has a heller clutch in its hub. They work independent of each other. When you switch to AWD you activate a magnet that causes rollers to climb up a hexagon nut type ramp where they contact the outer hub of the heller clutch. If you cut the end off a pop can, and put a really big hex nut inside of it you would begin to see how this works. If you have roller pins sitting on each of the flat surfaces of that nut you would see how they could work towards the outside of the can and then "bind" the inside hex nut to the inside of the can. This is how a heller clutch works.

Under normal conditions they don't lock in place very often. A primary cause is that you may have lost fluid in the hub. This is bad as their are many moving parts that will wear out rapidly without lubrication. Worn parts are more prone to binding. Check the fluid levels ASAP. Buy a repair manual from your dealer - it covers all of this in detail.

The Polaris drive train is geared so that the front wheels turn slightly faster then the rear wheels. So...when backup up the rollers have to unbind - against the rotation of the wheel, which sometimes is a problem as there is very little force from the magnet to pull the rollers away. If well lubricated it should work fine.

I found that using AWD is often over kill anyways. There are places and times I need it, but for the most part its easier to steer and maneuver with the AWD off and turn it on when its muddy, ice, wet or rough going. In these more "slippery" conditions, it normally doesn't lock up at all. If it does - have someone check into it.

Do not take the hub apart without the instructions in the service manual or I will guarantee you will be completely ticked off for doing so. Its not difficult - just problematic if you don't have the knowledge beforehand.

 

Thanks a lot for the information. I assume it is it easy enought to check the fluid levels without the manual? If it is, can you give me a quick run down on how to do it - I know that there is a small nut you have to undo to check the fluid level but I haven't investigatedow to get to it. I appreciate your feedback.

 

remove the plug with the hex head, turn the wheel so the hole is at the 4 oclock position and see if fluid starts to run out.

 

Do I have to remove the wheel to access the hex nut plug? I have taken your advice and ordered a copy of a service manual off of eBay.

 

no - its on the side of the hub