The best a-arms
#2
#3
This is the address
http://www.atving.com/editor/review/...rms/review.htm
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Jayson Blough '99 Banshee, '97 Warrior, '96 Blaster Yes I like Yamaha
http://www.atving.com/editor/review/...rms/review.htm
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Jayson Blough '99 Banshee, '97 Warrior, '96 Blaster Yes I like Yamaha
#4
Yes, if you race alot T-pins are worth the money due to being able to get more suspension travel due not having ball joints that have limited movement.
If you don't want to spend that much, lonestar A-arms are the best ones just below T-pins (I run Lonestar +2 arms), because the ball joints are bigger than what leagers or anybody elso run. Also Leagers (other than T-pin) A-arms break ball joints because the angle they are mounted on the A-arms is not quite right, so they tend to eventually bend the shaft of the ball joint, then they break. I've seen several people break them, also my friend had one break while he was in a 5th gear whoop section, he was fine until the quad landed on him as he was about to get up, then he suffered a severly broken collar bone. He's a National racer, and he even said that Lonestars are the best.
Hope this helps,
Sickman
If you don't want to spend that much, lonestar A-arms are the best ones just below T-pins (I run Lonestar +2 arms), because the ball joints are bigger than what leagers or anybody elso run. Also Leagers (other than T-pin) A-arms break ball joints because the angle they are mounted on the A-arms is not quite right, so they tend to eventually bend the shaft of the ball joint, then they break. I've seen several people break them, also my friend had one break while he was in a 5th gear whoop section, he was fine until the quad landed on him as he was about to get up, then he suffered a severly broken collar bone. He's a National racer, and he even said that Lonestars are the best.
Hope this helps,
Sickman
#5
#6
I was reading about busted ball joints on the Laeger arms and I am wondering why people don't use heims ( rod ends ) instead of ball joints. People have been using rod ends and spherical bearings on desert race cars and trucks since before Walker Evans' hair turned gray. With a rod end, you can have the bearing cup machined to allow extreme angles on the misalignment spacer without loading the spindle fastener in shear. And..... a chromoly or stainless steel rod end is much stronger than a ball joint ( rod ends are available for Ft > 100Kpsi, I don't know shear values off the top of my head) . It is just a thought.
#7
JD250R,
I actually bought my A-arms used, they are +2, Yes some people feel that +2+1 are better because they allow better turnig, you do have to get used to riding a little different as the front end will tend to be higher on jumps. I do get most of my other stuff from Last Rebel though, and I even asked Eric who basically runs it and he has been racing R's since back in the Mickey Thompson's and he told me that he feels +2 arms are better. He said +2+1 are used for desert racing, so basically I think it up to your style, if you can may try riding one with +2+1 arms to see if you would like them or not. If you want just give Last Rebel a call and Eric can help you out, just tell him you spoke with me, Adam and I'm sure he will help with other needs as well.
Good luck,
Sickman
I actually bought my A-arms used, they are +2, Yes some people feel that +2+1 are better because they allow better turnig, you do have to get used to riding a little different as the front end will tend to be higher on jumps. I do get most of my other stuff from Last Rebel though, and I even asked Eric who basically runs it and he has been racing R's since back in the Mickey Thompson's and he told me that he feels +2 arms are better. He said +2+1 are used for desert racing, so basically I think it up to your style, if you can may try riding one with +2+1 arms to see if you would like them or not. If you want just give Last Rebel a call and Eric can help you out, just tell him you spoke with me, Adam and I'm sure he will help with other needs as well.
Good luck,
Sickman
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