sorry in advanced for the long post....


I am going to try to be specific as possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated. When riding my Rancher AT 4x4 through trails I noticed that when I came to a stop the wheels pulled to the right and I heard a slight cranking noise. I got off the bike and noticed that it was very difficult to turn the wheels one dirrection unless I moved the machine forward. I limped back to camp and found that the CV boot was ripped. I know that this happens on a regular basis (1st time for me) but my thoughts are that there could be something else wrong. As I continued to ride the handle bars would shimmy back and forth and there were times when I could hardly turn the wheels to the left. The weird thing is that this did not happen all the time. My buddy mentioned that the right front could be stuck in 4 wheel drive. Or I was thinking (hoping) that there is just something in that joint (grit and mud) that may cause the bearing to have a problem turning. Has anyone heard of or had this happen to them. ANY help or suggestions as to what I should do would be awesome.

John

 

The same thing happend to my friends King Quad..This problem happens all the time to the King Quad but i have never heard of it on a rancher, ill talk to my friend that fixed it and ill tell you what he says

 

There's a chance you had a ripped boot for some time. Water and mud wash the grease out, then wear and corrosion take their toll.

My recommendation would be to disassemble the joint (you have to replace the boot anyway) and examine. I am not sure about Honda (this is my first 4WD Honda), but with my Arctic Cat you needed a slide hammer puller to pop the axle out of the differential, and I took the axle apart from the inside out. My AC (Suzuki running gear) also required that the axle and outer CV ($250) needed to be replaced if the outer CV was bad.

My other recommendation is that you examine the boots as part of your pre- and/or post-ride inspection, I do. I am always aware of the CV boots and try to watch where I drive.

Hopefully it is something a little less expensive like a tie rod end or one of your bushings. Either way you have to start wrenching to isolate the issue.

I'm looking at getting a set of these from Yamaha. Go to their web site and look at utility accessories.

4WD CV Boot Covers Reinforced with extra tough, para-aramid fibers. Installs over the CV boot, to provide extra protection.

 

Thanks TBONE.....tell me what he says.....

 

You will only need a screwdriver to gently work the axle out of the differential. You will need to remove the brake drum out of the way, pop the ball-joints loose, tie rod, spindle, and remove the knuckle. Take the opportunity to regrease. Clean and check your CV joints really well. Much of the axle is rebuildable if need be. If you haven't already, get the Honda Service Manual. If you need to replace a torn boot, check out what Gorilla Axle http://www.gorilla-axle.com/ has to offer. I went with thermaplastic boots and they are way more durable than stock. If you ever need to replace the whole axle they are the unit to go with. If you don't have access to CV pliers, a transmission shop can install new boot bands for you for minimum cost. Good luck.

 

This, of course, is if I need to replace the cv joint and/or axle shaft. Is there any chance that I could get away with just installing a new boot?

Thanks

 

If you don't have the proper tools you can carefully pry axles out of front differentials with a screwdriver, but I don't recommend it. I just migged an axle nut to a nut that fits my slide puller. Screwed it on the axle, pulled it tight, and gave it a tap with the hammer. A new clip should come with the boot kit, use it.

If you do get the manual, I'd bet they don't tell you to use a screwdriver. Some people have the touch to be able to use the wrong tools without damage, but I don't recommend the wrong tools if I've got no idea how good they are.

 

Actually I have the service manual right here and here's what it says, "Hold the inboard joint of the drive shaft and tug firmly to force the stopper ring at the drive shaft end past the groove while prying with a screwdriver." As a side note, "To prevent damage to the differential oil seal, hold the inboard joint horizontal until the drive shaft is clear of the differential." I looked it up because it is not my intention to give poor advice or advice that may damage another person's equipment.

 

I'm sure you didn't pat89, and I meant no offense and didn't mean it to sound that way. As I said before, I really didn't know with the Honda, just going by experience on other machines. I've seen damaged mega expensive aircraft hardware from someone using the wrong tools, and I'm a little (too) cautious. Glad they don't pull the axles off with a puller. Never liked shocking the differential, but there's little choice with the Suzuki axles. I replaced a CV boot every 100 miles on average. Took me about 20 minutes.

One thing I do know, it doesn't take much dirt to ruin a CV quickly.

Lucky enough so far not to have the need to replace a boot on the Honda yet, knock on wood...........

 

Oh no, no offense taken. I was just curious what the service manual said to pull it with. Twenty minutes to pull a CV, that's quick. Out of curiosity, what tool(s) do you use to tighten/clamp the cv boot clamp? I switched to thermoplastic and could never get enough tension (with the cheap Advance tool they sell) on the thick rubber to get a good crimp. I finally used a transmission shop to do it for $15. I'd like to find my own for next time.