"Automatic" Locker?
#1
Saw this about an
AUTOMATIC LOCKER
Anybody have any experience with one, either on a truck/car or a quad?
How do they work? Is steering easier than with a full-time locker?
AUTOMATIC LOCKER
Anybody have any experience with one, either on a truck/car or a quad?
How do they work? Is steering easier than with a full-time locker?
#3
<< sounds like an expensive polaris AWD system [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] >>
Dunno, Kukerdan; from the description, looks like 4WD engine compression braking (like when going down hills) would still be available with the DGL; also, doesn't look like any drivetrain slippage is required to engage the locker; it's normally engaged already. I wonder if the DGL actually is an automatic "unlocker," instead of an automatic locker--the DGL is normally locked, but unlocks automatically (like when making a turn).
#5
I have this on my Rubicon and have riden 450s with it. It does NOT require any slipage to engage like the Polaris AWD system does. This is a full time locker, but still allows for easier steering. The simple principle behind it is that no front wheel can be going slower than the motor, but one "could" be pushed faster by the ground. This is what happens in a turn.
Steering is easier than using a traditional locker.
Steering is easier than using a traditional locker.
#6
Diogenes,
I have Detroit lockers in both the rear and front end of my F-250. I have been very happy with its front end performance. The reason it is a good front end traction dif for me is because I have manual locking hubs. Automatic lockers work off of the difference in wheel speed when cornering. As the outside wheel starts to rotate faster(due to the fact that it has to cover more ground)there are "ramps" which will disengage the side gear for that axle. Once wheel speed is again equal, it re-locks and both axles are driven with equal force. Having manual locking hubs, makes it great for me because when the transfer case is disengaged only the ground turns the front wheels. In that case it will unlock and relock in corners with very little steering effect. However, when you engage the transfer case and send power to the front wheels it drives like a tank! With both front wheels being powered, it doesn't like to turn very well. If there are situations when you need to make a very slippery and tight turn, you can always unlock the inside hub and still have full power to the outside wheel.
Once you get used to driving with an automatic locker in the front end , you will be amazed how much difference it makes when you need traction. I've had mine now for about 9yrs, and now that I'm used to driving it. I would do it again with any other 4x4 that I ever buy(with maunual locking hubs).
As far as rear end application goes, its the same as a spool. No matter what, you have both wheels working for you. As long as you stay off the gas in tight corners, it will unlock and work fine. But if you are under power, it will chirp the inside tire, and tend to push you straight in a corner. But, again, the added traction was worth it for me. Plus when it gets really slippery out, nobody can do cookies as well as the guy with a locked rear end![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Rick
PS. The reason Detroit made an "unlocker" for the Honda's as well as others. Is because if the front end is under power at all times you might as well save yourself the money and just buy a full time locker. Its cheaper, and would work about the same.
I have Detroit lockers in both the rear and front end of my F-250. I have been very happy with its front end performance. The reason it is a good front end traction dif for me is because I have manual locking hubs. Automatic lockers work off of the difference in wheel speed when cornering. As the outside wheel starts to rotate faster(due to the fact that it has to cover more ground)there are "ramps" which will disengage the side gear for that axle. Once wheel speed is again equal, it re-locks and both axles are driven with equal force. Having manual locking hubs, makes it great for me because when the transfer case is disengaged only the ground turns the front wheels. In that case it will unlock and relock in corners with very little steering effect. However, when you engage the transfer case and send power to the front wheels it drives like a tank! With both front wheels being powered, it doesn't like to turn very well. If there are situations when you need to make a very slippery and tight turn, you can always unlock the inside hub and still have full power to the outside wheel.
Once you get used to driving with an automatic locker in the front end , you will be amazed how much difference it makes when you need traction. I've had mine now for about 9yrs, and now that I'm used to driving it. I would do it again with any other 4x4 that I ever buy(with maunual locking hubs).
As far as rear end application goes, its the same as a spool. No matter what, you have both wheels working for you. As long as you stay off the gas in tight corners, it will unlock and work fine. But if you are under power, it will chirp the inside tire, and tend to push you straight in a corner. But, again, the added traction was worth it for me. Plus when it gets really slippery out, nobody can do cookies as well as the guy with a locked rear end![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Rick
PS. The reason Detroit made an "unlocker" for the Honda's as well as others. Is because if the front end is under power at all times you might as well save yourself the money and just buy a full time locker. Its cheaper, and would work about the same.
#7
I'd buy the Detroit locker for my bike but they don't make it for Arctic Cats yet.
GrizRick, your 2001 Grizzly's front end is locked. Is it as bad as people say in a turn? I'm sure you have to put a little more into it to get the bike around a tight corner. I'd like to try locking the front diff on my AC500. NiteOwl on ATVMasters.com had some pictures there a while back on how to lock an AC500 diff(pre 2002). If it's "drive-able", I wouldn't mind the extra effort needed to turn as I don't do any high speed riding.
GrizRick, your 2001 Grizzly's front end is locked. Is it as bad as people say in a turn? I'm sure you have to put a little more into it to get the bike around a tight corner. I'd like to try locking the front diff on my AC500. NiteOwl on ATVMasters.com had some pictures there a while back on how to lock an AC500 diff(pre 2002). If it's "drive-able", I wouldn't mind the extra effort needed to turn as I don't do any high speed riding.
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#8
Locking your front end does mess up your steering some. But the added traction is more than worth it in my opinion! I ride in the woods for the most part. So the trails I ride on are tight and off camber a lot of the time, as well as very steep! When I ride in situations where I am lifting various wheels off the ground at different times, there is no substitution for traction! I have to work alittle harder to keep it going in the right direction, but it gets there when others don't.
If I had it to do again, I would in a minute. I've found that most, if not all of the guys I ride with are trying to keep up with me in the nasty stuff![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Traction equals action!
Rick
If I had it to do again, I would in a minute. I've found that most, if not all of the guys I ride with are trying to keep up with me in the nasty stuff![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] Traction equals action!
Rick
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