Man thats cool!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Ultra clean installation. Looks from here like it was a factory job. Real nice work. I would like to see the roost of sand that it looks like it could throw. LETS SEE SOME ACTION SHOTS!!

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: cataway

seen one at SL Saturday , it was fast but not the fastest thing there , i think the guy was afraid of it.
</end quote></div>

Afraid of it? Your joking right?
It was not the fastest thing there? Are you kidding me? (sarcasm)
It was clocked at just under 120 running across the flats in 3rd gear while we were adjusting the mapping on it and setting up the suspension.

It was the first time out on the sand. He was TUNING IT not racing it. LOL

He never lined up with anyone all weekend long except me. LOL

 

LOL, I am scared of it, wouldnt you be!! LOL
I didnt even realize this section existed!!!
This is supersonics post, and I dont want to hog the post, but I have two photos from the Silver Lake trip. The first is a featherd throttle start, and the second is when I could crack the throttle open in second gear. Supers bike runs alot more hp than I was running in these photos. Take a look at the 2nd photo, specifically at the tires, and see if you see something funny about the way they FLOAT, LOL on the sand at WOT. haha Thats alot of realestate to move.
Anyway, this is Supers topic, and a hardy NICE Job, hats off to him!!

http://s179.photobucket.com/albums/w313/gixxergary/


Gary

 

thats bad man nice bike

 

Dstroyer is right. if you arent scared of a turbo busa powered quad you will get hurt or killed . a stock DS makes what, 40hp maybe? if you can double that you have a dam fast bike. now try 40hp x 8 ?? you can be on your back instantly or rolling end over end at 100+ in the blink of an eye. the people who dont respect big power are the ones who end up in cold storage at the morgue. you kind of have to sneak up on a monsterbikes full potential . you have to get used to it slowly ,gradually getting the feel of it and all the time watching every part to make sure nothing is starting to fail. you cant just go out and start doing 9000rpm second gear take offs. which reminds me Dstroyer, when you do start realy hammering yoour bike at take off after a few passes slide one of your hubs off and make sure your axle isnt starting to twist. I was running a durablue quadracer 500 axle on a turbo bike I built years ago and twisted it and a stock axle off right where the hub ends. your aluminum axle is a jj&a it looks like? and it also looks gun drilled. I have a couple here that were solid 40mm but didnt have the ***** to try one with 300 hp+. did you call them to see what they will take for horse power? real nice looking bike by the way

 

The axle is a solid one, you just see the centers in the ends. After attempting a race at the West Michigan Sand dragway the other day on a very sticky track, I truely believe the aluminum axle needs to GO. It didnt break or bend, but when I had the power turned way up, I felt alot of vibration out of the back , and I never made a full pass down the track. In fact, I burnt up a clutch trying a second gear start with 17/56 gears. I now have heavy springs and the lockup clutch. The crazy thing is, that machine would do a 3rd gear launch with those gears. I just couldnt hold onto the bike. I have a 6 foot wheelie bar out back, and lowered to the ground. It really needs to have a custom seat made with a lower back support to keep the ars in place when launching.

Im going to be renting a sand track out in my area within the next month, just to get the seat time on a track I need. I have yet to make a full pass down a 300 foot strip with it. I need to turn the power down as low as it will go, and get used to that power at WOT. Then I can slowly increase the boost to a point I can handle.. Im not ashamed to say, its capable of way more power than I can hold onto.

Oh, about the axle, I will be replacing the aluminum shaft with a gun drilled 17-4 stainless prehard shaft. A ton heavier than the aluminum, but I could add an extra 150 lbs of rotating mass back there, and the machine would just ask for more.

Gary

 

I wanted to go light weight on the axle too but have found in the past that they just dont like torque. I had a brand new in the box stock DS axle which weighs a ton but I have found them to be unbreakable and I like the width for side hilling and ridge riding and I dune ride mine alot. I also like the security of big steel suspension parts. I'm getting to old to trust my life to ultra light aluminum tie rods or tiny little drag a arms. I cant flip end over end anymore and just get up laughing. LOL stuff breaks and takes a long time to heal. dont get me wrong, I'm not going slower the older I get by any means , if anything I go faster every time I make a trip to the sand but I'm just more aware of whats most likely to break and choose heavy duty mostly now instead of feather weight. on your clutch, did you install all 6 springs or just 3? and are you still running the factory lock up or something aftermarket like an MRE? I have springs here but havent installed them or had a clutch issue yet as I have had to take off in 1st gear because of a wheelie issue but at 9000rpm in first it still launches so hard that about 2 out of three passes I'm having to get out of the throttle because its going over on me. I end up shifting second then third and then just about hit the rev limmiter in 3rd and I'm seeing mid 90's on the hill. I would rather a second gear take off end up in 4th and not have to rev it so high and still break 100. thats my goal anyway . after I make a few changes I am going to drop a tooth on the front sprocket and try it in second gear but first Im going to have to go a few more inches on the swingarm and lower the front end with some shorter shocks.

 

When the clutch went, I replaced the springs with all 6 heavy ones. Way, and I mean Way to heavy for just cruising around. Also, with all 6 heavy springs, the clutch was either on or off, with absolutely no feathering available!! I hated it. With the centrifugal lockup from MRE, I am using 3 oems and 3 heavy springs. I replaced the 2 piece slipper clutch mechanism with a single from APE. Not sure what thats going to do for me, but they recommended it, and Im not about to find the problem on my own while riding. I am however, having a huge problem with stretching chains. At the West Michigan Sand Dragway, I litterally never got a full pass down the strip, but managed to have to adjust the chain twice in that time. Its an EK ZZZ chain also. Im not sure where to go from there, other than just keeping a close eye on the chain all the time. By the way, the motor is placed so the chain doesnt stretch or shorten thru its travel. I dont want to add any more inches to the swingarm, I have enough chain out there as it is, and I can run without guides now. I do have a custom guide designed in autocad that I used on past bikes. If you have access to a CNC, I can give you the cad file.

Gary

 

are you sure your bearing carrier isnt rotating under power? if yours is a 250r style carrier which I believe the jj&a stuff is , I have heard of this happening. you can generally stop this by rotating the carrier all the way around to the bottom side of its travel. its hard to explain but the carrier seems to only rotate in one dirrection. the same dirrection the axle rotates. if you have the cam lobe of the carrier on the top of the axle when the carrier rotates under power the chain will loosen. if you have the the carriers cam lobe on the bottom of the axle the chain will generally just keep itself tight . you will also gain a 1/2 inch of ground clearance in the back by doing this and the chain will adjust just the same. hopefully thats all it is. my experience with the ZZZ chains is that when they are brand new you will squish out some internal lube and have to adjust them maybe once or twice (small adjustment) then they flat stop needing attention. I set all my bikes up the same way, no change in chain tension through the whole range of swing arm travel . you can see how tight I keep my chain in the pics above. it looks extremely tight but I can still grab it and move it up or down about 2 inches . I just tighten it till there is no sag and call it good.