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Twister power - must read

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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 01:38 AM
  #1  
Twizz's Avatar
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Trailblazer
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Default Twister power - must read

I hand it to you fellas how have brain stormed solutions for repairs, maintenence, and upgrades.

The day after i bought my Hammerhead in October 2004 in found this mini buggy post here and lurkked for a while. I didnt know squat about these buggies, till I walked into the Gander Mnt. store I heard about for scouting a new fire arm and supplies. And there is was. The Hammerhead. I remembered all those times when I was younger trying to find a used Oddessy but didnt have the money. ps they were a rare find used in my area. And finding parts to an old Oddy seemed unlikley. Well, I did something I have never done before and bought the big ticket item on an impulse must have. Hell it was 3,200+ with tax.

So I'm hooked this thing kicks but. Its thrill is in it tiny size whipping around obticles and it does that well enough to get a real good kick.

But as well all can agree these machines were made under powered for legal reasons, liability.

So well all agree that we want more Power! And I've heard you gents taking all kinds of directions that I'm impressed with particularly because I'm not mechanically inclined at all. Actually I'm leaning alot from you guys and thank you very much for sharing all kinds of things.


So the other day it came to me about these engines. Basically a lawnmower engine right? Well dont they race those things in comititions? I remember seeing these crazzy folks in this small town race roto-tillers and they were flying down the track being dragged by the handles they were holding on to going like 50 miles an hour! It was hilarious!

Getting back to my point, thats when it hit me they must have been using nitrous oxide! If it can be done on those engines I know it can be done on these 150cc buggy engines. So I did a little checking and its already being used on motorcycles and they have new ATV appications allready out there. So is it dangerous to the engine? No apparently if you start low and gradually go up in
boost.

So my search the other night revealed there are two types of systems. One called a wet and one called a dry system. The wet system is a dirrect jet after the carborator right into the manifold. The dry system jets into the air system after the aircleaner but before the carborater.

From what I have been told the wet system is an instantaious boost and has an instant jerk of horsepower.

Where as the dry system jets nitrous in the air box and lets the carb naturally breath and has a more of a delayed affect or slower build up of injected horsepower gain.

Due to the fact we all have CVT belted torque converts tranmisions it would seem obvious that the dry system would benifit our need appliction.

Both systems are adjustable by ramping up to a larger jet nossle at the point of injection.

The dry system manifacture I spoke with today said on a small displacement 10hp motor they would recomend the 3hp nossle first and then experiment with posibbly the 5hp but wouldn't go any higher with out beefing up the engine parts first. He also said with a blank nossle we could drill out our own jet size needs if we wanted to try our own dialing in.

The wet system manifacture I spoke with said that on a 10hp motor 40% boost gain is pushing max limit on stresses.

I think we might have found a very intelligent hop up if you weren't aware of nitros oxide boosters.

In hot rodding nitrous is the most bang for your buck power increase mod to do.

Larger engine more overall hp but more weight! We absolutly dont want more weight! Which also leads to needing a beefier framing and more suspention, ie. further additional weight. Right?

Thats why the 250cc machines are going to be bigger heavier and far less nimble than our buggies already are. I personally think that going bigger is a mistake and will take the edge off the fun even if its faster all around.


So what are some advantages of a 150cc nitroused buggy. Hit the button for three or five seconds of boost when you need it. One hold back is that about 12 seconds is about tops of holding the nitrous button boost on these little engines due to rpm heating. However, several small shots in a row instead also could be used. Depending on the bottle size, a large bottle could last you good all day riding.
Anther advantage would be boost only when needed because the trail riding I've done I'm fine with the power its got much of the time.

Swaping bigger motors in that tight space doesnt seem feasable and way beyond my skills or knowledge. I'd like to know more about this hopefull 250cc retrofit swap I've heard mentioned on the forums here but it going to have to be more like a total rear swing link carige frame and suspention and motor upgrage and how much is that going to cost? ---I'm scare to ask.


The nitrous kits arent' cheap either say around 650. But there might even be cheaper ways to go than that with customizing your own kit from spare parts.

Research that must be done first before seeing if nitrous is feasible.

On the mechanical componts I'm feeling like it might only be able to boost while I'm on a good 10mph or greater or I might exceed certain strees limits of the drive train.

How much extra torque can your centrificale clutch clutch take? I suspose we would have to find out what they are rated for in hp first. Are the belts going to hold up to 30 40 or 50 % more stress and friction? What is the best spacing from the manifold needed and so forth.

Here is a biggy.. Does the Hammerhead and alike have a rev limiter that might need to be disingaged? Is my CID box going to handle the fogger system?

I know there are a million more questions to go before I'm satified with exacally what and how I would do a nitrous oxide set up. But from my preliminary inquistions today it seems the most simple feasible cost effective way to real power under my tiers .

The bonus is the air cleaner mod might be the easiest way to install the jet nossle and the pipe job would also compliment the rig.

The more I've pondered as I've written I think the dry system is the far better system for our buggies but I'm open to hearing more pros and cons. Got any?


I have some links to both system type kits but I'm not sure if I'm supose to post manifactures links or not. I think the forum rules said no. Sorry I'm a nubie.

Twizz



 
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 09:50 AM
  #2  
03250bayou's Avatar
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Default Twister power - must read

i think people were talking about putting different intakes and jetting on those buggies...but i dont remember...$650 for a NOS kit seems a bit much for only 3-5 horsepower...even if the stock is only 10...it seems like you could do some more shopping around and get much more out of other upgrades
 
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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 02:48 AM
  #3  
Twizz's Avatar
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Default Twister power - must read

Thanks. The only problems I'd have for plugging in nitrous is having to refill the bottles and the fact I'd want to have the extra thrust most of the time after I'd gone through the trouble and money.

So its really not solving the lacking power plant issue.

The air box swap and pipe combo actually doesn't do much from what I've heard. A fractional increase only in the low end torque no real hp increase. Costs around 350.

Rejet, free if you drill out the stock. How large? Not sure. Then I'd recommend doing the air filter job and new pipe. Expected increase maybe 1 - 1-1/2 hp at best. You would probably have problems running rich. Costs still 350.


I like the idea of raising the compression. I'm not a mechanic so its beyond me and the cost to have someone else modify the engine block parts and labor seem like its going to be alot. Not that I'm done with the idea because I'm actually going to check on it. Expecting to turn a 10 hp into a 15 hp might be streching it. Keep in mind that you wont want to run nitrous on top of high compression.

Still not happy enough and put that price on top of the pipe and air box kit and I think you are wasting you money on a bad set up.



The only real way to get the juice your looking for is to drop the whole swing link, shocks and all , engine, trans and axl and start over. The 250cc engine isn't even going to cut it. You have to think about a new 20-22 hp engine and start from scratch if you want tire scorching power and speed. But then remember you are going to have to weld extra supporting gausets to the frame as well. Costs of that start with a new horizontal motor around 1100. Used ? Again beyond my talents of designing.

I'm not happy with my options right now.





 
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Old Apr 16, 2005 | 02:17 PM
  #4  
hoopx3's Avatar
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Default Twister power - must read

Hello,
I know my cousin installed a Nos kit onto a pocket bike, he bought the kit off ebay,
uses a modified portable tire inflator, the kind the bicycle riders carry but instead of co2
it uses the nos from small bottles that the food industry uses. A small hose gets routed
to the air cleaner. My cousin called me after testing it and was hysterical, he would get to about
40 on the pocket bilke, hit the lever, and wouldnt be able to keep the front weel down, he said he
musta added about 20 mph to the top speed but it happened real fast.

Only prob the way I see it is the small bottles wouldnt last very long.

Readin the other posts I see milling the head, thinner head gasket timing adjustment is the
way to go.

Maybe do both !

I wondered about changing from unleaded to pure grain alcohol, I have a sprint cart with a briggs 5hs
does about 50, could do more if I change the gearing.
The 5 hs burning alcohol with timing advance, larger jet and small valve work adds about another 5 horse I was told.
But this should be another thread...

Glenn
 
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Old Apr 16, 2005 | 07:53 PM
  #5  
RAPTORAZ's Avatar
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Default Twister power - must read

I've been into the top end of my buggy's motor's half a dozen times already. And from what I've seen, they won't take too much nitrous abuse. The ring lands on the piston are quite thin.
 
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