I plan on purchasing a rhino next year and I have a few questions. Does a Rhino have trouble taking off from a dead stop with 27inch tires? Is there anything that I can do to fix that? Where can I find out what states that you can license them for road use? I plan to put over 7k worth of accessories into it.
Thanks in advance

 

you will want to add a clutch kit that will adjust for the tire size. If you are going to that size tire you may have issues with rubbing the fenders and might want to look into lifting or long travel kits. Off set rims or spacers will be a must for that tall of a tire. The damn things are tippy enough as is.

 

I wasnt wanting to put them on it when i get it, but i've heard a lot of people say that they had trouble doing it.

 

27" tires will fit with no spacers and no rubbing anywhere on a stock Rhino with its 7" of suspension travel. If the $7K in modifications includes a long travel suspension though, then the 27" tires are going to rub. I have a Lonestar +6.5 XTR suspension with Elka Elites on my Rhino, and 25" Bighorns rub the tops of the rear fender openings 1" up on the plastic when the suspension is fully stuffed. So if I were the type to let blackened scuffed up plastic bother me I would have to trim at least an inch of plastic all the way around the top of the rear fenders to prevent tire rub, even with 25" tires. The Lonestar suspension has 15" of suspension travel, so if you don't want the Rhino sitting a mile in the air, that extra travel has to come from somewhere, and a good portion of it is increased compression suspension travel.

There are lots of different clutch kits for the Rhino that make it easier to turn big tires. I have a Trinity Racing sheave and clutch weights in mine, and it helped alot even with just 25" tires. The new sheave and weights let the engine rev more, quicker, and then it launches harder and accelerates faster, with more top end speed as well.

DV

 

Oh, and one other thing ...

If you are getting a long travel suspension, or even a mid-travel suspension for the new Rhino, then get Gorilla axles with it. Most suspensions will offer a choice of either HD Gorilla axles and CV joints, or extended axles that re-use the stock CV joints. When you first look at it you are going to think you'll save a lot of money by just getting the extended (Lonestar for example) axles, and re-using the stock CV joints. After all, the Lonestar extended axles have a lifetime warranty, and if you ever break one they will be replaced for free. The problem is, the stock CV joints wont hold up to the abuse a long travel suspension is going to dish out. I've had my long travel Rhino up and running with the long travel suspension since the end of May, and in four months I've broken three OEM CV joints. I broke the left rear outer CV joint twice, and each time it took out the Lonestar axle (splines) with it. Lonestar will NOT replace an axle under warranty if the CV breaking is what tears up the axle. So the first time I replaced the Lonestar axle and the OEM CV joint. The second time I broke that same OEM CV joint I replaced both rear axles and all four rear CV joints with the HD Gorilla axles and CVs. No more problems with the rear end. But this weekend I had a front Lonestar axle come out of the CV and tear up the splines on that axle. So now I'll be putting the HD Gorilla axles and CVs on the front end.

So save yourself some money in the long run. There is nothing wrong with the Lonestar axles, but the stock CV joints that are used with them are way too flimsy for the speed (and abuse) that long travel Rhinos are capable of. And any aftermarket suspension that uses extended axles with the stock CV joints is going to have the same limitations -- the stock CV joints. Get the Gorilla axles with whatever long travel suspension you use.

Now if that $7000 in accessories does not include a suspension system, then you are going to have a whole lot of billet aluminum on that Rhino, LOL.

DV

 

I dont plan to buy a long travel kit, but i might put a 2inch lift kit on it. some of the things that i'm getting are, full skids, tires and wheels(teracross or the mudlightxtrs or whatever they're called along with ss108 wheels), a j-strong top with the sterio, bumpers, and a lot more.
thanks for the info DV

 

also i posted the other thread"BREAKING GRIZZLY IN" would the same process be used to break a rhino in?

 

got to thinking and talking to a friend and i might put a clutch kit in it, wheel spacers and 27" tires. how hard is it to put a clutch kit in and about how much does one cost? will it affect my top speed.

 

Ok, I was just guessing on the long travel suspension, because thats what they cost with a set of Elka shocks added in.

Break-in process should be the same.

It takes about an hour to put in a clutch kit, if you just change the sheave and weights. If you change the springs on the wet clutch you would probably have to add another hour. The hardest part of changing clutch components is removing the CVT cover, but there is a trick to it. I've read where some people have even unbolted their motor mounts, or used a big pry bar to tweak the motor in the rubber mounts to get the cover off, but you don't need to do any of that. When you get the cover bolts out, just pull the cover out about an inch, and then rotate the whole cover ninty degrees and it will slide right out underneath the seat frame.

 

The Trinity sheave and clutch weights cost about $230 if I remember right.

Clutch mods will affect top speed. An aftermarket sheave allows the transmission to shiftout more, and at a lower RPM, so you will have a higher top speed before hitting the rev limiter. Lighter clutch weights let the engine RPM build faster, and if used without an aftermarket sheave they can decrease top speed, but help you turn big tires easier. Changing the secondary spring to a stiffer spring also slows down shiftout rate, and lets engine RPM build faster like the lighter weights do, and a stiffer secondary spring can also decrease top speed. It just depends on what is limiting top speed, and whether it is the clutching or the stock CDI.