Thought I would give muzzleloadig a try. Got this in last week. I've always bowhunted. But, in hopes of getting another Elk tag this year, I'm going to include muzzleloader as one of my three choices. I might as well put it in for Mule Deer also. I've never had a problem getting a deer tag though. If you have any do's and/or dont's, needed supplies, components you use please offer up any help? It's a T/C Omega in a .50 caliber. Going to get a Leatherwood/Hi-Lux Toby Bridges series scope. Has cross-hairs for ranges out to 250 yards. The manufacturer says "two of the best bullets to tap the performance of this scope are the 260- or 300-grain Scorpion PT Gold."

 

The biggest thing is keep it clean. Use bore cleaner not rem oil for cleaning it will help out a lot. Also keep it clean. Most problems with mussel loaders is from people who do not keep them clean. After you shoot it clean it that day do not let it sit around or you will cause more problems then you want.

 

In-line ignition guns aren't allowed for muzzle loader seasons here, so I'm not that familiar with them.

T/C builds good guns though. I have a 54 Hawkin style rifle (kit) and it shoots very well.

As with hunting of any sort, spend lots of time at the range experimenting with loads and bullets, and becoming familiar with your equipment and what you can and can't do with it.

For mine, I fired a variety of mini, round, sabot and other rounds, but the thing that will make one ragged hole was Lee's Real maxi cast out of dental x-ray lead. (My dentist gave me a bunch of the little lead sheets that are inside those little x-ray things). My mould is 380 grain, if I recall correctly.

The price of muzzle loading bullets is obscene, so if you are going to shoot much, casting your own is the way to go. Lee makes a REAL in 50, like 320 grain.

Cleaning is very important, especially if you use real black powder. Also, before loading I like to pop a couple of caps. It clears anything left from cleaning, and makes ignition more reliable.


There are a variety of good books on muzzle loading, and it would be a good idea to go out with someone experienced. Some folks seem to treat muzzle loaders as though they aren't a firearm, but they can be just as lethal in a moment of inattention.

 

I like the historical reproductions, you get to experience the characteristics of the original without paying the high price for a gun you can't shoot.

Putting in for an elk tag in KY this year, using this:



It's a repro of a Whitworth rifle. Fires a 580 grain bullet at around 2200FPS. Just a delight to shoot, it's beautifully balanced, sits on the shoulder perfectly.

Accurate? During the civil war, a sniper picked off a Union general at 800 yards with a Whitworth rifle. Head shot. I've had remarkable results with this reproduction, provided I carefully trim and weigh the bullets, prepare the powder charges consistently, and keep the barrel clean.

Absolutely, cast your own bullets. Not only cheaper, you can increase your accuracy once you learn to get the mold to the right temperature for uniform cooling, and trim the resulting rounds yourself.