recon brakes?
#12
Well I'm sorry to say that you can't just live without them. I tried it and almost mated with a big tree on Saturday.
To adjust the fron brakes remove the little red plug and turn the wheel so that it lines up with 1 of the adjusters (there are 2 per wheel). With a flat head screw driver turn the adjuster in the direction of the arrow on the adjster, never found the one on my but I turn them upwards. Turn it until the wheel will not move and then back it off 3 clicks and turn the tire to make sure that the brakes aren't dragging. Redue this process for the other 3 brake adjusters. If you have a owners manual it says in it on to adjust the brakes.
To adjust the fron brakes remove the little red plug and turn the wheel so that it lines up with 1 of the adjusters (there are 2 per wheel). With a flat head screw driver turn the adjuster in the direction of the arrow on the adjster, never found the one on my but I turn them upwards. Turn it until the wheel will not move and then back it off 3 clicks and turn the tire to make sure that the brakes aren't dragging. Redue this process for the other 3 brake adjusters. If you have a owners manual it says in it on to adjust the brakes.
#14
Regarding Honda Recon front brakes. I am used to the feel of the mushy type honda brakes from their three wheelers bacjk in the 80's. I just got a brand new Recon standard shift about 2 weeks ago. When I got it it felt like the front brakes were too tight. So I read completely through the manual and also ordered a clymer manual off of ebay for it. I had a trip planned for this weekend so I wanted to intsall a skid plate I made for it. Well, when I put the atv up on my stand I went ahead and checked the front and rear brakes. What I found was that the front brakes were too tight on one wheel from the factory. The left front wheel wouldn't even free spin when the brakes weren't in use!!! Anyway, I backed the adjustment for that brake off a few clicks until I had free wheel spin like on a car. I checked the brake free play and feel of the brakes and all works well now. By the way, I can get a little better speed and the machine runs better because it can roll alot better now!!! Moral of the story is, even if the unit is brand new, get a clymer manual or refer to the owners manual and regularly check the brakes and the free wheel spin. By the way I rode the devil out of it this weekend and it is a great machine!!! Does well in the mud and hill climbs and river crossings. I bounced it off a few round rocks in the river but the new heavy duty, slick, plastic skid plate that I made allowed me to slide right on over them with no damage or speed loss. Ride safe!!
#15
I agree I just bought a clymer repair manual and it is well worth the money. I also made a skid plater for my recon but used 3/16" metal so it'll flex some. The recon is a blast to ride on the trails and climbs hills pretty good too. I have a little problems with water crossing because I only weigh 115lbs and in water 1 & 1/2' deep and with a current the rear end og my recon starts to float and I go down stream, which is not a good thing to do!
#16
Redrecon. Yeah, I have about 80 more lbs to hold mine down in the water. I weigh about 185. I really like the Clymer manuals. Sure helps to save money towards accessories and a nice set of rims eventually. Now I just have to make some A arm protectors.Only reason I used the plastic for the skid plate is because I can consider them disposable. If one tears up I just take my pattern and make another.It mounts up in just a few minutes and doesn't add much weight to the wheeler. Slicker than a booger too<grin>.Good riding!
#18
I got my clymer manual at an atv parts dealer and when I went to get my K&N power kit he had one there so I bought it. There are normally some on e-bay to.
All I did to make my skid plate was make a cardboard cut out from the back of the engine all the way to the front bash plate. It just so happened that the piece of metal I had was the exact width as the frame so I didn't have to cut that much. I have to held in with 4 bolts, 2 in the plate at the rear of the engine, 1 in the frame going up the center under the engine and another bolt in the very front of it. It only takes a few minutes to take off and put on and isn't all that heavy. Deffintly a good thing to add, I can't count all the times that I have heard a rock grind up the skid plate.
All I did to make my skid plate was make a cardboard cut out from the back of the engine all the way to the front bash plate. It just so happened that the piece of metal I had was the exact width as the frame so I didn't have to cut that much. I have to held in with 4 bolts, 2 in the plate at the rear of the engine, 1 in the frame going up the center under the engine and another bolt in the very front of it. It only takes a few minutes to take off and put on and isn't all that heavy. Deffintly a good thing to add, I can't count all the times that I have heard a rock grind up the skid plate.
#20
Now you have me wondering about my brakes. I've been putting off looking at them. They certainly don't stop on a dime but they do work. How long do you guys think the original brakes should last?


