just got my friends full after market 250r together and were breaking the motor in. after break in, we tune his 250r and after a couple of rides it's off to the red neck grass drag nationals in my others friends front yard. his bike is a 2003 arens 250r frame (note: cheaper than my lonestar frame but so is the design, would suggest lonestar over arens anyday), tmm +2 a-arms, lone star swingarm and axle. full axis shocks, worn out 18+11+8 cut turf tammers, 14t front sprocket and 39 steel rear sprocket. new just broken in eddie sanders racing 350 power vavle ported for mxing with the midrange head dome installed. eddie sanders chrome mx pipe with fmf power core silencer. k&n filter on factory airbox, 39 pwk carb. 176 main jet, sparks cr250 reed cage. full race gas.

my quad is a 2001 lone star no-link, everything lone star except for the +2 laeger a-arms. pep zps shocks, new 18+11+8 cut turfs, 14t front and 38 rear steel sprocket. just broken in pro-x 310, mx porting by tmm, chrome sparks mx pipe and silencer, 38 pwk carb sparks cr250 reed cage, k&n air filter on custome airbox, full race gas.

even through my quad is older it has been riden less than 30 hours and the motor has just been rebuilt ands broken in.

smooth grass front yard, 180 yards long. my quad hooked up better than his and i got a quad lenth head start right out of the hole (also maybe because his tires were worn badly). we both started in 2nd gear. we were even in 3rd, and i was a quad lenght behind him after 4th and two quad lengths behind him in 5th when we cross the finish line. after several runs the results were the same. with some new tires he would have put 3 to4 quad lenghts on me easy. i rode his quad afterward and that thing did not stop spinning like a mad man until 4th gear. bottom line, 350 power valves are the man. cain't wait till i get my cdale back together and race him in it. i know the 350 pv has more power but the cdale puts the power to the ground and is so quick out of the hole.

 

just out of curiosity, because I was considering buying an arens frame---what did you find cheap about the arens frame. I heard from others( personally I dont have any experience with any of them) that they are top notch frames, as good if not better than the more expensive frames.

 

I put together an all aftermarket R with PRP frame and I'm very pleased with it. Everything lined up very nice and I've had no problems with it, it was cheaper than the Lonestar and Aren's as well.

My R also has an ESR motor, a 310 with 9 porting and it spanks my C'dale in the sand drags at Little Sahara, usually by 3-4 bike lengths. My C'dale has HMF pipe and Moto map and it's very strong but it's no match to the ESR 310. I've since put in another ESR 310 in my R, this time a power valve and it seems to pull even harder than the non PV. Got to love the ESR stuff, top notch in my opinion!

 

arens frame looks good, and i did not notice any weak or bad welds (of course the frame is powder coated and would hide any bad spots). first thing was the total lack of any mention of the rear brake petal. it simply want work and was not made to fit a stock 250r rear brake petal. you have to buy a $100 1996 cr250 dirt bike brake petal, bolt and return spring. then, the kick starter hits the cr250 brake petal and hangs up when you kick the quad over. really sucks. there is no serial number on the frame. the front motor mount is a thin plate of steel, and i have seen several of them break. the lower front a-arm mounting points have a large flat plate (maybe for extra surport for the a-arm mount) that gets in the way of your pipe. we haD to put a small piece of rubber between it and the pipe to keep it from rubbing. the gas tank rear mounting bolts use the same bolts as the head stay. so every time you pull the gas tank, you unbolt the head stay and have to realign it. you have to unbolt the metal clamp that holds the fuel lines to the gas tank because they will hit the head stay and not let the gas tank set all the way down. you have to have an 1988 or 1898 steering stem, or you have to grind the thin metal ring off you 1986 and 1987 steering stem to make it work. the rear grab bar mount is set up for a 1988 and 1989 grab bar, so you have to redrill your older model (1986 and 1987)grab bar or buy a new one. you have to remove the original foot mounting bracket from your stock honda frame and mount the foot peg to the arens frame. you have to buy an aftermarket seat latch because the stock honda seat latch will not work.
these are what i encountered when i built my friends quad last week. i built my lone star no-link last year and found it to be a much stronger looking (larger tube for the frame, double braces for the swingarm bolt) and better designed frame. with both frames beside each other you can really tell the difference. i got my lonestar frame at a national for $2000, brand new. the arens frame was $2000 shipped to my door. i would go with the lonestar over the arens, but the arens would still be alot stronger and lighter than a factory honda frame.

 

thanks for the info, airtime
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