I haven't been on one of these machines, but you might try tapping the front brakes quickly and softly a few times. Maybe traction control will be next.

I don't think you would be seeing these front wheel spin issues if it were a Torsen diff.

 

The reason it is not working right maybe you are not doing everything you are supposed you have to wiggle the handle bars while pumping the brakes and then you have to hold your head just right to get it to work. I hear so many different answers on this topic of torque sense front end not working right I would like to know once and for all if it works or not...and then again I have heard some people say how there 4 wheel drives steer like a 2 wheel drive and then I read these posts, I have rode a rancher and a forman and they didn't steer as easily as my Sportsman even when I didn't have the steering extension plates on, so what gives fellows on this issue anybody got any answers...

 

ATVing, I'm wondering about your statement that the Sportsman 500 steers easier than a Rancher or 450 Foreman. Even my mom agreed when her and my dad switched machines on the last trailride that the 450 steers easier than her Sportsman, especially on pavement. Maybe yours needs to get a few years of wear on it first.

 

"Even my mom agreed when her and my dad
switched machines on the last trailride
that the 450 steers easier than her
Sportsman, especially on pavement."

????????????

A lot could depend on the tires being used and the inflation pressures involved. On our 450ES, when the trailbreaker tires are on it, it is easier to steer than with the stock Honda tires.

With stock tires on the 450ES vs a Magnum 500 with stock tires, the Magnum steers more easily.

Toe out/front end alignment will also play a factor in ease of steering.

But.... Anybody who says that the 450ES has a plush ride (like Dirt Wheels, and the original ATV Connection Review) is blowing smoke.

It is a sturdy, reliable, torquey, proven machine
but plushness is not one of it's attributes; unless one is comparing it to original Foreman 350.

 

I'm not sure on this but I think the suzuki 500 has a locked differential when it's in super low range, and when it's in low range it has a regular differential...is that right people?? cause I think I heard of that before and that's what I would buy

 

Great Article Stroke9....
It doesn't say if it is stricty for automotive applications, or give an Email address for further information. Do you have any furhter details on this product?

 

ATV-MAN...
The Suzuki 500 Quadrunner & Quadmaster, do not have a Super Low, only Low & High.
The front Diff. is a not so dependable Limited Slip which suffers from all of the pitfalls that are mentioned in this thread.

 

I own an automobile that has a Torsen differential. It's a sports car, and if it weren't for that differential I would be spinning one tire leaving every light, it's a torqie car. It spins both tires on asphalt if they spin. It will chirp one tire, it's hard not too and happens all the time.

The Torsen design has been around for a while but was very expensive to manufacture until recently. I am not sure how it behaves off road, I don’t like to drive down a gravel driveway with this car, and I avoid it if I can.

However, the HUMVEE uses this differential also though for a different reason. It could be that the Honda AP is a simplified Torsen. No one has explained how it senses torque bias to me. It might use clutch packs.

If Honda isn't using the Torsen maybe it could be miniaturized and used on these small vehicles. The Rubicon is a sophisticated machine. I don't think traction control by applying the brake to the spinning wheel is beyond possibility.

I don’t want a locked front axel on my Quad. They are difficult to turn anyway. Lets leave locked front axels to the rubber band boys …

 

Thor,

If you were in a power slide, wouldn't the wheels be spinning, and if the wheels were spinning wouldn't the 4X4 engage on a Polaris, and if the 4X4 engaged on the Polaris, wouldn't it suffer the same unpredictable fate.

I think it could be even worse with the rubber band machine...

 

Rooster all the things thor says comes into play but if you really think about it have you never felt the pull the Honda gives when cornering do to the limited slip, the polaris is like a 2 wheel drive with only the 2 back wheels pulling until the rear wheels break traction then the front end kicks in there is no pull from the steering when cornering and mine steers easily and when you add the steering plates so help me it is the closest thing to power steering there is just ask some of the other guys who have installed the plates. The front end on the Polaris kicks in without you ever knowing it and kicks back out the same when traction is regained, if I remember correctly the foreman I rode steered better than the rancher. Maybe we could start a post on this one to see different peoples opinion and the bikes I rode all had stock tires. And for the person who was asking about the suzuki you can take a pin someway out and it turns the suzuki into 4 wheel drive in all gears there is a post on here about but seems it would be a hard steerer if this conversion was done thats why with a Polaris in my opinion you get the best of both worlds what do you think on this one guys...also stroke9 you were asking if the Polaris would suffer the same issue of engagement on power slides causing under steer well it want if you have the 2 to 4 wheel drive switch turned off that is why I stress a lot how valuable it would be to have on the Ruby for this reason and for if you wanted to add lockers just turn it on for the steep stuff and off when not needed. The only time it is not a good thing if you have it turned off when you think it is on when going up steep stuff which I have done before...