Chitina....you've brought up a good point here for more discussion....i have been wondering about draining the carb as well....but i have also heard some people say that draining the carb is NOT a good idea...use the stabilizer and run the engine until the fuel in the carb contains the stabilizer as well...and don't drain it....so i'm still up in the air as to whether or not draining the carb is a good idea...anyone got any more opinions on this?

 

The only input I have on this issue is It has always been explained to me to not drain the carb after it has been treated. There are seals, orings, gaskets and internal parts that move and use fuel as the protector and lubricator. Not all carbs have everyone of these items, but you can bet your carb has at least one. If the fuel in your carb is treated then in "MY OPINION ONLY" You do not have to drain.

 

Storage ritual:

Clean off all mud and dirt.

Bring all maintenance up to date, including squirting lube in the control cable housings.

Your last oil change of the year should be dino oil not synthetic.

Fill the tank and add stabil.

Run the engine until it and especially the exhaust pipe and mufler are hot.

One squirt of oil in the spark plug hole and crank the engine once without starting it. Replace plug.
To be extra careful or for a long term storage, with the plug out, turn the engine over slowly manually, and stop the piston at top dead center on the compression stroke. Replace plug

Put a couple of big squirts of oil in the open end of the mufler (after it has cooled of course).

Get a cotton shop cloth realy oily (sopping) and stick it half into the open end of the muffler, closing the opening.

Cover with tarp that breathes... not plastic

It helps to use a motorcycle/ATV trickle charger on the battery every monthor so as well at to check the tires and don't let any go flat, add rodent traps if appropriate.
(Sometimes I take the battery out and put on the shelf to make charging easier and if I am sure I won't be wanting to run the engine)

If for any reason you decide to start the ATV during the winter, you must run the engine until the engine and the muffler are hot. If you cannot let the engine run that long, don't start it, no exceptions..


I know this seems excessive, but I restore vintage British motorcycles (as a hobby not a profession). Using this ritual I have kept rust out of 60 year old engines. Bikes I have had for 40 years have no rust in the engines and they still have their original exhaust system and muffler.

 

In your case you said you will be running it from time to time this winter right? Put some stabil in the tank, the gas we buy these days is iffy at best. I live in an area that sells reformulated gas only (FEDERAL LAW) this stuff really goes bad fast. I'm in the Milwaukee and Chicago area though. Stabil is cheap insurance though. I also recommend a trickle charger on the battery, look for Battery Tender Brand at any shop. Mine has a short harness that you just leave on the battery year round, it has quick plug- in disconnect, just plug the little charger unit to the leads on battery and let it sit, be sure you are using a very low amperage trickle charger though, don't use a Automotive type charger with a 2 amp setting, 2 amps is to much to just leave on charge with a small battey like an ATV, or motorcycle, you look for more like a 1/2 amp charger, that should be all you need. If and when you do run it in the winter always run it long enough for everything to get hot, normal operating temperature, if you don't you'll rust out your exhaust, you have to burn all the condensation in the pipe out. I know this is getting kinda long but it's only 2 easy steps and you will be fine.

 

See 2 little steps and I forgot to say after you add the stabil, run the bike until your sure the carb is full of the stabiled gas, I do this every year with my Ninja never had a problem, where is Wittenberg, WI? I have lived in Wisconsin 48 years and never heard of it, hope your near some trails, I'm down in Kenosha and there is nothing down here, I ride a lot at Black River Falls, it's about a 3 and 1/2 to 4 hour drive though, I used to snowmobile too, but we never seem to get any snow around here anymore

 

hey that is some great advise everyone has given you but lets do this instead,just send me your rincon during the time you would store it and i will keep real good care of it,i promise to only ride it once a month and no mud,no big hill climbs,no heavy pulling,honest it will be good as new when you get it back next spring....hardly no miles at all...


seriously use the stabil and float charger,thats the best things you can do if you can't ride it...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

For maintaining the charge on the battery use the Battery Tender Plus, not the Battery Tender Jr. The Plus has bulk, absorption and float cycles. The Jr only has bulk and float cycles. Your battery will know the difference.

 

Several Honda maintenance departments in Anchorage advised that I run all the gas out of the carbuerator, even tho there is fuel stabilizer in the gas. Also they recommend I take the battery out of the atv and store it elsewhere. The temperature can drop to -45 in the winter, so that may be a reason for drainging the carb and removing the battery. Anyway, I have stored my rubicon and rancher this way for 11 months at a time for three years, and so each ATVs has had no trouble starting.

 

Chitina,

You store your ATV for 11 months at a time. Does this mean your riding season only one month long??

 

bigdaddy048

I livein central wisconsin just east of wausau