Trick 250R
#1
Hello,
This monday I will be picking up my new 86 250R
And then I will begin modifications over the winter, anyway I would like to know what ever one thinks would be some cool mods. These are the ones that I plan on doing.
-Black Standard Maier plastic
-red renthal bars
-Fmf Fatty pipe (not sure if I should get this one because I want one that is Mid-Range)
-holeshot Tires front, Rear
-Get the frame/swingarm painted at a shop bright red again.
-Get the rear Shock rebuilt, and get dual rate Front shock units.
-A pro-Design Cool head, can I get one that works with pump gas.
Anyway thanks
BUB
This monday I will be picking up my new 86 250R
And then I will begin modifications over the winter, anyway I would like to know what ever one thinks would be some cool mods. These are the ones that I plan on doing.
-Black Standard Maier plastic
-red renthal bars
-Fmf Fatty pipe (not sure if I should get this one because I want one that is Mid-Range)
-holeshot Tires front, Rear
-Get the frame/swingarm painted at a shop bright red again.
-Get the rear Shock rebuilt, and get dual rate Front shock units.
-A pro-Design Cool head, can I get one that works with pump gas.
Anyway thanks
BUB
#2
I absolutely DESPISE my Maier plastic. It was the worst thing I have ever done. The fit and finish is CR@P!!! Granted it is much cheaper than OEM plastic and you have a better range of colors, I still don't like it. The plastic is much softer too, so it scratches easier too, and with black, every little scratch shows...
The Fatty tends to have a little more of a hit towards the mid-range, which can cause wheel spin. A pipe like the CT national, LRD MX, or Paul Turner mid-range, have a mellower hit, but still provide very nice power.
You can get Pro-Design domes to run with just about any fuel you desire.
The Fatty tends to have a little more of a hit towards the mid-range, which can cause wheel spin. A pipe like the CT national, LRD MX, or Paul Turner mid-range, have a mellower hit, but still provide very nice power.
You can get Pro-Design domes to run with just about any fuel you desire.
#3
i think that the maier plastic is good-
i have it on mine--"mop and glow" work wonders on it..
i would recommend that you get the frame power-coated, and not painted..
i think that good suspension ought to come before
a "hot" motor.. i have PEP triple rate motos on mine
as far as a pipe goes, i think that the LRD is the best-- it is the only one that i know of that is
~adjustable~ so you can "tune" it for low, mid-range, or high end---
email me if you want specs on the LRD pipe
thats my thoughts
fill 'er up and let's go!!
i have it on mine--"mop and glow" work wonders on it..
i would recommend that you get the frame power-coated, and not painted..
i think that good suspension ought to come before
a "hot" motor.. i have PEP triple rate motos on mine
as far as a pipe goes, i think that the LRD is the best-- it is the only one that i know of that is
~adjustable~ so you can "tune" it for low, mid-range, or high end---
email me if you want specs on the LRD pipe
thats my thoughts

fill 'er up and let's go!!
#6
I guess alot of it has to do with where I ride at--the dunes. Most everyone has everything polished or chromed, custom paint jobs, most bikes are showcases. No matter how much chrome Lonestar stuff or Cascade billet goodies I have, my plastic still looks like S$!T...
If I rode in the mud or tight trails alot, and didn't want to fork out the cash for OEM fenders, then...yeah Maier would be OK.
If I rode in the mud or tight trails alot, and didn't want to fork out the cash for OEM fenders, then...yeah Maier would be OK.
#7
I say dont get an FMF pipe.Pick an engine kit you like from a good tuner(CT,Duncan,Sparks etc)and get the pipe for it.If you can afford it get the whole package(carb,porting etc).A steering stabilizer works wonders too,the best $100 you'll spend.18 inch turf tamers on 8 inch beadlocks,radials up front.Axcalibur +4 axle is also a must have.Bigger a-arms wont hurt either.Gettin carried away here he he I love building these things!
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#8
Maier is alright. Stock is still better. As for the powdercoat paint, your call I get mine done at work with regular automotive paint, my buddy mixes with some addative that allows the paint to, you might say give a little. It may not hold like powdercoat but heck it gets redone once a year. Go with a CT pipe get the MX style its got awsome mids. Cool heads are nice, if you like a 250 or just save some more pennies and but a CT 310 for it. Very awsome usable power. Shocks, get the rear revalved and a set of works perf will be just fine up front. As for the holeshots......I like Fast trekkers all around 21x7x10s up front and 18x11x8 in the rear. Gearing is 14front 38 rear.
#9
Maier is alright. Stock is still better. As for the powdercoat paint, your call I get mine done at work with regular automotive paint, my buddy mixes with some addative that allows the paint to, you might say give a little. It may not hold like powdercoat but heck it gets redone once a year. Go with a CT pipe get the MX style its got awsome mids. Cool heads are nice, if you like a 250 or just save some more pennies and but a CT 310 for it. Very awsome usable power. Shocks, get the rear revalved and a set of works perf will be just fine up front. As for the holeshots......I like Fast trekkers all around 21x7x10s up front and 18x11x8 in the rear. Gearing is 14front 38 rear.
'86 250R
lots and lots of mods
to many to list
'86 250R
lots and lots of mods
to many to list
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