My buddy just bought a 1988 Honda 250R for $2800 and it needs a new Crank and Top end. who make the best crank for this quad? We are going to get Wiseco Pistons for it.
It has a FMF Fatty Pipe and a Power Core 2 Silencer and a Pro Design Cool Head and a Reed Spacer X5 Tag Bars and shockwears shock covers and a Pro Design Power Shifter and T9 Pro Series Aluminum wheels on the Front (Holeshots) and the Rear (Turf Tamers) and a K&N Air Filter and a AC Front bumper and a AC Rear grab Bar and a Moose Brake Rotor and FX Graphic

 

Replace it with a stock crank.

 

oem or wiseco

 

Ok guys I need help fast. it has a 86 cylinder on it but I am not sure if the crank it a 86 or 88 and I cant find a Number on the crank case.

 

Can someone please help me out?

 

Are you running a spacer plate? I posted the following a while back which might answer some of your questions as well:

The 1987 and later TRX 250R's come equipped with a crankshaft that has a connecting rod that is 5 mm longer (center to center) than their earlier model cousins (1985 & 1986 ATC250R & 1986 TRX250R & the 1984 thru current model CR 250R). The piston of the long rod version engine has its wrist pin located 5 mm higher to offset it. A long rod crank used in combination with the short rod piston will bolt up - along with a base plate spacer if you want to increase the crankcase volume and take advantage of the longer rods leverage. In addition to this - because of the extra thickness the base plate spacer adds, it is necessary to buy longer cylinder base studs and install them.

The long rod crank can be used with the long rod piston, independent of the year model of the cylinder barrel - any year is ok -though there are some differences to later year model porting configurations. Generally the later model barrels have better porting on the exhaust side - the exhaust timing was more advanced and the front transfer ports are aimed better. There are some improvements in the squish thickness and area as well.

When combining the long rod and the 1986 piston the cylinder head-stay will have to be modified or removed since the cylinder will now be raised with the base plate spacer. If you decide to remove the head stay it is probably best to leave the tube connecting the frame rails together so it can still be used to stiffen the backbone of the frame as it was intended.

To reverse this design, use an 86 model year crankshaft with it's shorter rod and the 86 piston. This combination can be also used in any year model barrel. The connecting rods (125.3 mm and 130.3 mm) and main bearings are available individually for replacement and are much cheaper than the purchase of a complete new crankshaft.

The 86 style piston has a large cut out in its intake to allow for a lot of intake timing. There really is no need for an additional hole in it. Compared to the small hole on the later model pistons - the cut out of the 86 is huge. The only reason to use the 86 piston is to make up for the base plate spacer which is used on (later model) long rod motors to increase crankcase volume. The later model year pistons last longer because they have more skirt to them and their barrels have additional intake bridges to support them better.

 

I am think that it is a 86 Cylinder on a 88 Crank. The Cylinder is a Grayish color and the Crank case is black. And there is not a bridge on the intake in the Cylinder. And no there is not a spacer plate. This is the first time I have did any work on a 250R

 

There is a part number on top of the piston, what is it?

 

I cant tell what the number is the Top of the Piston it is all chewed up.

 

Ive got a crank you can have but you will have to pay for shipping.