I have been searching for solid information on Honda oil changes and maintenance however it seems to be a slippery topic, no one agrees with anyone on this subject. One person uses regular oil the next uses synthetic, one uses 10W40 the next 5W50, one uses chicken broth the other beef bullion (oops that's for Polaris)...so for all us newbies out there wanting to save a few bucks by doing our own oil jobs and air filter changes let us know how to do it CORRECTLY (hours vs. miles)and the products you have had best success with. Also at what point in time does the dealer need to check out the valves?

Ready to change @ 40 miles...
BNT5

 

Your manual will tell you the recommended time frame for oil changes and there should also be a chart for which vicosity oils you should use depending on the temp. I usually run 10w30 or 40 simply because it gives you the broadest temp range. I also only run synthetic because I ride hard and my bike is air cooled with an oil cooler to help a little bit. Synthetic will take the abuse and time if you ride long and hard between changes.

 

I would check the manual as mentioned. As long as you are not showing any signs of water contaminating the oil...your oil should last a long time. It does not cost that much to give yourself piece of mind. If it were me...this time around, I would probably change the oil and filter.
When you drain the oil, take a look at it. You might be able to tell by the color, smell or viscosity if your on schedual.

I change my oil every few rides(maybe 3-4)....for me..it may be accessive, But I just like to keep my motor in good shape...

 

I also change my oil afetr 3-5 days of riding. Some people say it crazy to change it so much but what $5 compared to $1000 motor rebuild. I also change my oil in my TC405 race bike after every day of riding. i run 20/50 in that bike

 

The specified oil change intervals in your manual state 20hrs/100miles for your first oil change then every 100hrs/600miles there after. Grade of oil is dependent on the climate and the type of service the machine will see. Synthetic oils are not recommended during the breakin period, but can be used after. Do not use oils with friction modifiers as this will affect clutch performance.
Clean and oil air filter 100hrs/600miles.
Valves adjusted every 200hrs/1200miles.
There is a chart with the maintanance intervals, as well as the grade of oil to use, in your owners manual.

 

I have been using 20W-50 Castrol semi synthetic (local summer temps in my area are 100 - 50 degrees) in my machine. I change the oil about every 3 tanks of gas. I am not sure how many hours or miles this adds up to. In the winter I will change to 10W-40 (temps range between 40 and 10 degrees).

I can determine mileage and hours by going back to my log; as you can see, I haven't done this yet. I keep a log of everything I do to the machine. When I do a day of riding, I record how long I rode, how many miles, how fast I went, etc (obtained by cycle computer/speedo). This just helps me keep track of everything. Between the quad and 2 vehicles, I can't remember everything I've done to them. I try to do everything myself; 1) it saves you money, which can be spent elsewhere on your quad, and 2) it helps you become more acquainted with your machine.

Trust me, when you're stuck in the middle of nowhere, this knowledge will come in handy.

I haven't adjusted the valves yet, but will soon. I need to head to Sears and pick up a torque wrench first.

 

Here's the Honda Maintenance Schedule
Honda 4-Stroke Maintenance Schedule

 

As mentioned prior, oil changes are cheap insurance. The stuff is protecting practically all moving parts on an ATV that cost PLENTY. Using Valvoline 100% Synthetic 20W-50 in the air-cooled machines (Foreman ES), and the same in 10W-30 for water-cooled (Rubicon) Of course the Rubicon "tells" you on the LCD indicator when to change the oil, and I do the others at 500 miles. Neither have what could be classified as an "exotic" engine, but synthetic will still make them last longer. It's also nice that both machines have an odometer and hour meter to measure maintenance intervals with.

 

In the Rubicon, I was told to use only 10W-40 by my dealer.

 

My dealer pushes 20W-50, but I trust the owners manual. Your dealer is correct with the 10W-40 according to the owners manual, at least in a hot climate. My logic was that we ride in moderate temperatures . . . and, the Rubicon is water cooled with an oil cooler, i.e. fairly well temperature controlled. I would have no problem with a 10W-40 or 5W-40 synthetic, as VI improvers are at a minimum or none, compared to a 10W-40 dino oil. There is research to indicate that too much VI improver can be harmful. Note that virtually no new automobiles recommend 10W-40.