Some reading if you wish to educate yourself about oils.........<a href="http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm">

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm</A>

http://www.maximausa.com/technical/l...beNews2002.pdf

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html#Oil

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html#Oil

 

we don't even give our diesel tractor a synthetic because we change it every spring, and the cap says D-10W 40 i don't think the D means anything because we've been putting in valvoline and john deere oil in it and no problems, but i would imagine a synthetic is thicker? in a way that would make the engine work harder to get the oil moving espcially in a oil pump, until i learned about the two diferent oil distributors in the engine like "splash and pump" splash seemed quite rediculous to me.

glad to offer any help to you insey.

 

Alright thanks guys for all the help. I'll probably go with a bottle from Maxima Racing Oils just because it seems like they cater more to ATVs than regular motor oil companies do.

 

yeah hey, oil is complicated, and your set up doesn't seem to build alot of heat so take your pick i like tractor oils because they are designed for real hot temps in the big diesels that they use, but i like quaker state also with their synthetics.

 

Insey, Sorry, I should of mentioned this earlier. I run Quakerstate 10w40 in our '86 Honda Fourtrax, same as your[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] We've never had any problems with it[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] We live in the Central Valley of Northern Ca. and ride in hot, 90-100 plus degree weather during the summer. With the Honda being air cooled, we've never had a problem with running 10w40[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] And it is ridden at slow speeds majority of the time.

 

Hmm well since you have the same ATV I guess it wouldn't hurt using the same stuff you do. I am guessing I just have to look for the "JASO MA" label if I buy it from Quakerstate?

 

Ours is completely original[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] And still runs strong. If you run it during the winter and live in a colder region, I would suggest going to 10w30 for the winter month. With it being an air-cooled atv, 10w40 has not let us down, in the 6 years or so, that we've owned it[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

extreme-Actually, synthetics are THINNER at startup, and that is their huge advantage over petroleum. Being thinner, you get the oil throught the oil pump and to the bearings quicker. Most engine wear occurs in the first seconds after startup, when there is no oil yet flowing. That is especially true if your engine has plain bearings. Ester synthetics have the added advantage that they cling to metal surfaces, so there is always some oil in the bearings, even when the engine has sat for a long time.

On the other end of the heat spectrum, synthetics hold up better at high temperature. Ester synthetics in particular have way more "film strength" than either PAO synthetics (like Mobil 1 or Amsoil) or petroleum, so they protect better at high temperature and high shear.

 

i stand corrected but i learn something all the time.